As I finish writing this (2 days before Christmas) we have no idea what lies ahead…some countries seem to be slowly recovering whilst the UK as a whole seems to be sliding further and further into disaster, or maybe not? I tend to think that the phrase “couture sewing” is recent and that it results from the DIY phenomena in combination with the popularity of Project Runway. My first video is talking through some of the details of the dress I made for The Dressmakers’ Ball.

As I mentioned in my Dressmaker’s Ball dress post, I did a lot of hand sewing and did quite enjoy it, but I don’t think I’m very skilled at it. so i would guess what most home sewists do on a regular basis (well i'm a beginner but I'm working on it! This has probably ended up not being a-not-entirely-coherent post but that’s kind-of appropriate I reckon! Personally I take the literal translation of couture as 'sewing' but haute couture is attention to detail and yes, spending time (lots of time) on hand sewing and finishing techniques.This is one of my variations on the Camber Set I roll-hemmed a straight strip of fabric here which I then pleated onto the sleeve using a fork! Maybe it is a handy marketing ploy to imply prestige, sell more product, fancy tools, or books on secret sewing methods? As well as the matching trainers and purse, I wore my gold party socks – I almost thought it was too matchy-matchy but then I realised I don’t care! Originally I’d wanted to be a costume designer but during my college course I realised that going into bridal or evening wear was a very good alternative. This is not a fabric to use weights and a rotary cutter on unless the whole lot fits onto a cutting board without disturbing the fabric, if you’re spending time laying up the fabric carefully so that the grain lines are straight in both (warp and weft) directions you can’t then mess it about shifting a cutting mat underneath it and the pattern pieces need to be secured in place with pins.

It was starting to come together here – it just needed the leather on the shoulders and the sleeves adding. In America we don't have these classifications or for that matter the apprentice system that supports and protects it.I can see why – to get away from the stigma of home-made, and compare dressmaking at home to the super-expensive couture garments sent down the runway. I agree that it can be confusing, also because it could also imply the reverse, “not-couture” techniques or styles of sewing, as some have mentioned here. All of these I attached by appliquéing around the black outlines (I was literally making it up as I went along! in the UK you are probably familiar with her from being a contestant on the Great British Sewing Bee, plus you can also listen to her chatting on Sew Organised Style too! It is interesting this couture sewing – I am a good sewer, able to construct anything, but I can be slapdash and lazy, and I love your blog Sherry as you admit to some of my failings as well.

Also there are loads of different stitches for different places on garments so I’m thinking I’ll do a sampler or something to practice. hehe, those French words you mention are ingrained into English now, just shows how language does change! I haven’t ever encountered it in pattern making instructions but I think it’s an excellent way of stabilising the cuffs of coats and jackets. I seem to come across the term mostly in an American context – is ‘couture technique’ an American term, and not really used elsewhere in the world?When they were happy I would be given the pattern along with all the fabrics and instructions for the new sample. One garment that offered massive chances to use up multiple fabrics was the ubiquitous tiered and ruffled dress-a buffet dress in current parlance! In general, I think that these books use “couture” to suggest that the techniques are more in depth/time consuming and yield better results that what the Big 4 would generally instruct you to do in their pattern instructions. Within a couple of weeks of getting back, Judith Staley and I hosted the very first Sew Over 50 meet-up in London.

They all had different capabilities so some would stick to simpler garments like skirts or bodices whilst others made the fantastic evening gowns and ball dresses which David Fielden had become known for. I know some have adapted by using Zoom or other platforms but it just wouldn’t work for me, I feel dressmaking is too hands-on and needs real assistance for tricky bits, holding things up to the camera isn’t good enough sometimes. Jen sees it as part of her creative process, to have the choice amongst her stash, to inspire her ideas for making.What it strictly means, though, I'm not sure… one of my recent RTW dresses has beautiful bound buttonholes, which were sewn entirely by machine.