Tie the foliage together ina bunch – thiswill reduce wind damage and prevent water collecting in the growing points and causing rot. The bacterial ooze can be scrubbed off to reduce the offensiveness of its appearance and smell. However, the ooze can not be plugged or stopped; and there is no cure When planting in a container, as a houseplant or in summer container displays, use multipurpose or loam-based compost such as John Innes No 2. See our container planting guide. Before this second harsh winter they were just gorgeous, they had divided up, I have five stems on one and three on the other one. Not tall like some in my area that have grown really high, these seem to have stayed and the height they are for a couple of years now. There are a couple of pests that can cause problems for Cordyline plants. The two most common are mites and thrips. Mites

How to grow cordyline / RHS Gardening

In a city garden, these plants look great in containers and pots adding some vibrancy and interest to seating areas, patios and balconies. They look stunning when planted in a modern container topped with slate chippings or pebbles. Planting them in groups show off their different forms. Alternatively, add pots of tropical looking flowers such as Canna lilies, Clianthus and Sophora. Pruning advice Cordylines add all round interest to the garden and suit a variety of styles. They are striking architectural plants that look good with other tropical-style plants and softer grasses. Move themto a frost-free location, such as a greenhouse, porch or conservatory. You can also give them temporary shelter in a shed or garage during cold snaps. This cultivar variety has green leaves with cream stripes which can be up to 60 cm in length. It reaches an ultimate height of 4 metres (13 feet). C. Australis ‘Sundance’ Container-grown plants can be moved into a greenhouse or indoors. Alternatively, wrap the pot in bubble wrap and the foliage in fleece and place the pot in a sheltered location such as against a wall.

Cordyline stems can grow from the base of the plant or off of an existing stem. Either stem can be used for cuttings. Just be careful not to damage nearby stems. The ‘Red Sister’ variety of cordyline is one of the most common types you’ll see in a nursery. It has bright, fuchsia-colored new growth, while the older leaves are deeper reddish green.

Cordyline australis - Big Plant Nursery Cordyline australis - Big Plant Nursery

In warm summers, established cordylines may flower and fruit. This causes no harm and the spikes of tiny white flowers can either be removed or retained, or can be cut out later when they are no longer attractive. If left, they will form small red or purple berry-like fruits. These shrubs should be planted out in spring. This allows them to get established before cold winter weather.Though these plants are grown for their architectural foliage, they produce spectacular clusters of white flowers in good summers. The flowers are followed by small red or purple berries.

Everything You Need to Know About Cordyline Plant Care

With their bold, architectural appearance, cordylines make striking focal points. As well as green-leaved cultivars, there are some with dark red or purple foliage, or with yellow, pink or white stripes.Cordyline fruticosa includes the ‘Soledad Purple’ cultivar which has striking, large green leaves. The younger leaves are tinted with purple and the flowers are light purple. The bacteria penetrate deep into the stem tissues, and when the sugary sap rises in spring this is fermented by the bacteria to produce the foul-smelling slime. Gasses are also produced which force the slime out under pressure and may result in further stem splitting. A range of bacterial species, as well as other organisms such as yeasts and fungi, are often found within the slime, all taking advantage of the sugars within the sap. Other trees, shrubs and climbers