Chaos Space Marine Rhino: The Chaos Space Marine Rhino is a staple of the Chaos Space Marine army, and its rugged, battle-worn appearance makes it an ideal candidate for Druchii Violet. Adding this color to the Rhino would give it a darker and more sinister appearance, perfect for a Chaos Space Marine army. Mutant Flesh: – Wash with a 50/50 mix of Coelia Greenshade/Lhamian Medium. – Apply a light 60/40 mix of Coleia Greenshade/Lhamian Medium to the more prominent crevices and separations in the alien arms. – Soft Drybrush VGC Ghost Grey with a round-tipped makeup brush, focusing on the most prominent raised edges and features (face, hands etc). Build up a few light layers on the smooth areas of the head this way to help blend into the darker skin. – Edge Highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh. Based on color theory and the concept of making a complementary color palette, it was decided to list these particular paints. Ushabti Bone and Fire Dragon Bright are analogous to orange and yellow, respectively. Purity seals in Waagh Flesh, Warboss Green, and Skarsnik Green on the wax, with the parchment being Rakarth Flesh and then Ushabti Bone Once you have the glaze mixed, use a small brush to put just a little bit of the paint on the tip. Since the paint is so wet with thinner, if there’s too much paint on the brush it will run and we wont have the kind of control we want. Use your nail, the base of the model, or the pallet to test it a bit to make sure you have good control over the paint coming off the brush.

Being lazy about waiting for the chipping medium to dry, since the medium behaves weirdly through the airbrush I find it tends to pool occasionally resulting in areas that take longer to dry. You can exploit this by just not quite letting it dry in those spots as it will give a good impression of a larger patch of paint falling off after a bit of gentle rubbing with a damp brush.I was tired of cleaning up after myself, so I decided to adopt this little fella in the hopes that maybe the floor would be a little less messy. The good news is that it worked great; my floors are bare. The bad news is that he’s also eaten the leather couch, three of the neighborhood cats, and both of my legs. “Rippy” the Ripper. Credit: Kevin Genson The bases are stamped SuperSculpey, painted in a basic stone scheme with Stirland Mud and bits of aquarium flowers or Citadel Creeping Vines washed with Druchii Violet and Carronburg Crimson to tone down the color. The Quetzales Jades live on a deep yet alien jungle world, amidst the ruins of a still-active civilization. Not unlike modern day Guatemala. There are some custom transfers coming for a chapter logo and squad markings, and I plan to expand on their story in a later article. Contrary to what many pots of paint would have you believe, there is no single “skin tone”. The reason for this is because human skin is a complex, multilayered structure and derives its colour as a sum of its components, much of which is constantly in flux in life. Skin is translucent and “skin colour” is largely a combination of the colours present within the skin – the pigment melanin, red of blood and yellow of fat. If you have had the misfortune of seeing a corpse, then you can observe the sallow cast that develops – the loss of blood from the skin on death leads to a loss of ‘red’, leaving the melanin and fat behind. Tongue: Screamer Pink basecoat, Druchii Violet wash, Bugmans Glow highlight, Fulgrim Pink spot highlight.

GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) The wings can get some final edge highlights but that isn’t super necessary, especially if you have more than one model of these to paint. The lights are coated with Ushabti and then washed Iyanden, on larger things you can use Ushabti, Screaming Skull and White to do a lens effect implying the glass but that tends to be overkill on small models. Wash the red armor bits with about 40% Agrax, 60% Lahmian Medium, then touch up any pooling marks with Mephiston RedI do not remember the exact colors or ratios I used to render my sweet daughter on canvas. Looks like there was some grey, purple, yellow, red, and white. Feel free to attempt to paint my lovely companion animal yourself, and share with us the result. Highlight the skin with your preferred off-white, I find either VMC Ghost Grey or Citadel Palid Wych Flesh works well. Build it up over several thin-ass layers so not to lose the unnatural tones we built up. Soft-drybrushing can work well here as well.

Airbrush Vallejo Model Air Insignia White over the entire thing. You could also use your favorite off-white, I’m a fan of Insignia white as it’s very close and just a tiny bit warm. Another layer, adding more Pallid Wych Flesh focussed on the sharpest edges and most raised surfaces. Thin down Citadel Wraithbone and add Citadel Lahmian medium so you have a usable translucent beige. Apply this on the flat parts of the skin e.g. the tops of arms, shoulders, cheeks, foreheads etc… Because the surface tension (I think) is higher, the shade pulls away from the edges and vertical surface and does a better job of concentrating in the recesses. This left my edges alone and I was able to move on without any touchups! Pendulin’s Shadowkeepers scheme can be found in a separate article – How to Paint Everything: Adeptus Custodes Shadowkeepers.

Blood Games by Dan Abnett is a short story set within the Emperor’s Palace and what Custodes do when they’re not fighting. For the human skin highlight the colours are basically just moving left to right from darkest to lightest of this trio of paints. The darker skin is a couple of thin coats of Knight-Questor, then for the last highlight mixing in a touch of Cadian. The medium skin tone started with Cadian followed by mixing in a bit of Kislev for the final highlight of the medium tone. Then I reused that Cadian/Kislev mix for the initial highlight of the lightest tone that was then finished off with kislev. The hybrid skin is a couple of thin coats of Ushabti over the base coat, you can push it a touch further with screaming skull if you want.

I ended up using thinned 2:1 Guilliman Blue glaze:flow improver and glazed the lower 2/3rds of the face. Then I painted small veins with the thinned Guilliman Blue (which got covered with thinned Pallid Wych Flesh, unfortunately) to look like veins showing through the pallid skin. I also used thinned Drakehof Nightshade to shade under the eyes.

Jack’s Method

Using pure white, edge highlight the blade, and the inner cleft of the blade, as well as the power nodes I hit the scales and the top of the banner in places with Runefang Steel so that when I paint the scales and fur with Contrast Shyish Purple there is a nice metallic sheen. I also hit the crab claw as well. Wash the reds with Nuln Oil to darken the robes down more than an Agrax or Carroburg Crimson wash would do. We want some deep rich colors to set off the pale white. For the bases, I glued sand down, painted it brown with Vallejo Brown Earth and drybrushed with Army Painter Mummy Robes. I used blue and dark grass from Gamers Grass to decorate their bases.