I will work in some Mr. Color paints for the more unique colors. I feel equally as comfortable with their line of paints as well. The marked portholes are now filled and new portholes will be drilled nearby to more accurately reflect their actual position. At this point I’m in a holding pattern… The result isn’t terrible, and the error won’t be apparent to any but the most ardent Titanic fans. I may try to get away with it unless it gnaws at me enough to eventually force my hand. And that's it for the moment. I hope you have enjoyed the challenge I have on the workbench this month. I think I've been at work on this for about 4-5 weeks now (Furlough is brilliant) Earlier in the build I was having trouble with the MK1 rudder. I was way too small, didn't fit right in the model and looked out of sorts.

Went to see Cameron's Titanic upon its first day of cinema release, had heard so much about it, this was a must see for me, always been a bit of a history buff for this subject I suppose.I do have various other add ons including several brass sheets from Woody’s Model Works. Very nice stuff and highly recommended. (Neil Woods is in a bit of a hiatus right now as he figures out how to deal with UK VAT requirements). x 17ml Vallejo model paints. Vallejo paints are supplied in plastic bottles of 17ml with an eyedropper device which keeps paint from drying and prevents spills. The model color range has been specifically developed for adherence on difficult surfaces such as metal and plastic, but the product is not toxic, not flammable, and does not give off noxious fumes.

Similar procedure as I worked outward for the next plates. I would slightly overlap the styrene and cut them square.The Titanic has been attracting modelers for decades. Many different plastic scale model kits of the Titanic have been released so far. Their quality, of course, varies widely. Today we will be looking at some of the best titanic model kits available on the market. initial first attempt to use them, I need to use a vice next time and tape the etch into the jog before the fold process The Titanic had stops mounted on two of the pintles to limit the maximum rudder angle to 40 degrees on hard turns. Small snips of .020 x .040 styrene were added for these. There is also a small piece of .010 x.020 strip on the outer edge for a future hasp (?) ring that mounts here. I’ll add that just before priming/painting since it’ll be fragile. For some people, there’s also a possible advantage of this being from the MCP – multi-color parts – line. What that means, is that the various parts are injected in appropriately colored plastic. This means you don’t have to paint the model if you don’t want to. That makes it an ideal kit for absolute beginners. However, I would still recommend painting the model, as it will look so much better. There is a terrific PE brass solution provided by Mini-Brass that will produce an excellent result (as evidenced by many build logs out in the ether), but I didn’t go that route. It seemed to me that using PE would make those plates stand out as elements not belonging to the rest of the hull. Essentially, I worried that the brass plating with the overlapping seams might be TOO accurate.

Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy). I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve. As promised on one of my original posts, this will be a bit of a sporadic build while I finish my Niagara. Next, I needed to attend to the missing portholes on the upper stern counter. I again used the guidance from Mr. Boyd’s resource to find the proper spacing. I then painted it up, electing to use some of the colourised images of the Olympic promenades and do the lower panels in a green. This photo is after the initial coats of white, brown and green and the Trumpeter PE provided window frames went in. Still some touching up to be done after the initial paint drys thoroughly and probably once I get a new script for my glasses, as I think my eyesight has deteriorated since I started this. The window frames fit very exactly into the frames. Now I just have to figure how to get the "glass" cut. I may try to use my wife's Cameo cutter.I had some concern that these might require pre-drilling some smaller centering holes to keep the bit from drifting and creating obvious misaligned ports across the side of the hull. Anyway, here is a picture of the model as she sits on my new work-table the kit is about 4.5 feet long so it takes most of the desk space, once I've "finished" the hull, I may move it to a side table so I can do sub assemblies and other projects at the main table. These guides were slipped over the drill bit and held in place at ninety degrees while drilling. I didn’t need to drill all the way through the hull – only needed enough of a dimple to guide the larger bit. These worked like a charm.

For the vast majority of the ship, I'll be using Tamiya rattle cans for the larger items such as the hull. The same piece was replicated for both port and starboard. I then filled the midline seam with Tamiya putty so that it will disappear when primed.The wiskers is drill swarf from the port holes, I've used Porthole Jiggs from Nigels Modeling Benc to drill pilot holes on all the ones that are to be drilled. This set also corrects the lifeboat complement, with 20 new resin craft: 14 are 30ft 64-man boats, plus four 28ft 40-man collapsible boats – all depicted with realistic stretched canvas covers – and two 25ft 33-man rescue cutters, which were usually rigged for emergency launching. There’s a resin jig to assist assembly of the 40 PE passenger benches, while the ship’s propellers are furnished in 3D-printed resin. One big disappointment with the kit concerns the watertight doors, which are moulded integrally with the walls and are devoid of detail; MK1’s solution is to provide these as separate PE items, with handrails and bulkhead-mounted lights treated in a similar fashion.