The only things that seem to show are the two lit LEDs denoting that the hot water and central heating boost are on. I’ve attached a really bad picture to show the green lights that are lit. I assume too, that the existing thermostat is actually controlling the heating at the moment. I've seen some installations where there's a thermostat with a cable in, but it wasn't connected to anythng at the other end. And all central heating should come from the same 230 volt supply, otherwise and UPS system to keep it running will not work. However my TRV's with this house (oil fired) have not worked anywhere near as good as with late mothers house (modulating gas) how much down to how pipework installed and how much down to on/off boiler I don't know. Much depends upon the layout of the various components in your home, if the system has been modified or moved in the past, the personal preferences of the installer, and the materials they had to hand. Lots of variables really. I turned the boiler off overnight as I thought maybe the system had been bugged and central heating and hot water were on.

Allowing different programmes for weekdays and weekends and independent timing of each channel. LP522 provides the ability to control central heating even more efficiently. No longer do systems have to switch on as early at weekends as they do on weekdays. boiler turned off in case heating was left on as I can’t see if it is on the display (but could hear it working) random turning off of the display of the programmer console Drayton Lifestyle LP522 with two lights denoting HW/CH boost are on I assume you are asking this for simplicity of installation, it's a bit of a fudge to leave the LP522 in place, but you could. The simplest way would be to leave the heating set to be permanently 'on' at the LP522 and replace the old mechanical thermostat with a WiFi controlled 'wired' smart thermostat.I decided to get a Nest 3rd Gen (Learning Thermostat) after reading the forums on here. I'm in a rental property with no thermostat and I want to save money on heating, and I figured I could probably take this with me if I move (I also like tech). Also, whilst there maybe a nomenclature in the wiring centre lid stating the suggested function of each terminal, often it is ignored. Looked at Tado but info was not readily available, it seems some models not for sale in UK, same with Nest USA Nest has temperature senders but not the UK model. It's not a total disaster, as pressing the manual button does work - but that doesn't make sense as clearly it can and does operate the CH. I know there are plenty of threads about this but I still can’t seem to hit this one on the head. I had an LP522 in place in my new house and am trying to hook up a new Nest to it

Finally the old thermostat needs to be decommissioned. The simplest way is to leave it in place and put both wires in the same terminal so that they are electrically connected. With the majority of installations, the thermostat is connected to the wiring centre, but not always. The programmer is usually the second most common place, generally because it is downstairs and closer to the thermostat than the wiring centre which can be upstairs in an airing cupboard. The HW didn't work on the Nest, which was a surprise. So I just took a wire off, and it now works fine. It was great to have hot water in the morning without getting out of bed and pressing a button. However, my CH wasn't working on the scheduler, or the dial.

LP722

Another thing is that the hot water was a lot hotter than it usually was but perhaps this was because the water was left on for longer than it usually does.

I have considered changing my own thermostat, but mothers house had so many problems with wireless link, so not keen on wireless, at the moment using Nest Gen 3, as it sends info through the same two wires as it gets the 12 volt power, so all done with two wires boiler area to main house. But Nest Gen 3 does not connect to TRV heads, it said it did, but alas that's not true, but mainly the problem is house design, late mothers house worked fine without linking TRV's, but this house hall cools too slow. Another possibility is that the room thermostat and /or programmer have been moved at some point and the wires extended from another junction box using wires with a different colour. The Nest thermostat is connected to the Heat link terminals T1 & T2 (or it can be powered using a separate plug in power supply) If you are using T1 & T2 for the thermostat, the earth terminal just to their left, also needs connecting to earth. I read this forum https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/upgrading-lp522-to-nest-wiring-diagram.502626/ - and found it really useful and how is easy it was.

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The Drayton LP522 as well as heating control includes another channel for control of hot water heating. So that would still continue to work as it does now. Read around and some say it could be a blown fuse which this turn off of the display is telling me but I don’t get why the two lights would be on? My initial feeling is that a fuse went off in the junction box and that’s caused the programmer to go blank with the two lights lit to denote a replacement fuse is required? Not sure why the heating and and potentially HW stayed on though. Unfortunately, whilst the wires have to terminate at their correct points for the heating to work, there is no fixed way of getting them there. I have seen 100's of installations over the years and I'm pretty sure no two of them have been installed exactly the same.

Which model you choose will depend upon how the old thermostat is wired. Not all room thermostats have a neutral connection and just have a live and a switched live. If yours doesn't have a neutral, you would require a battery operated replacement. Such as the Tado wired thermostat. The two switching wires from the existing thermostat simply connect to the NO and COM terminals and that's it, wiring done. If you do have a neutral present at the thermostat you have the option of a battery or mains powered thermostat.