If you are dyeing synthetic fabric (i.e. fabric containing more than 35% polyester, acrylic or acetate), then you cannot use this method. Due to the complexity of dyeing synthetics, you must use the stovetop method to maintain an almost boiling temperature for the duration of your dyeing.

After this has dissolved, add the cup of pre-mixed dye in the same way – pushing the fabric to the side to avoid pouring it directly. This helps to avoid dark splotches. Mix thoroughly. You can swish a bit of extra hot water in your dye cup and add it to your dye bath to make sure you get it all. Step 7: Stir frequently until the dye is absorbed. Turn off the heat. For sink dyeing the bottle called for 1/2 a bottle of the liquid dye per each 3 gallons of water. The bottle is 8 ounces, so that means 4 ounces per 3 gallons of water. I didn’t need that much, so I used 2 ounces of dye and 1.5 gallons of water. This converts to 1/4 cup of liquid dye and 24 cups of water. Shuffle your fabric to the side with your tongs or spoon so you’re not pouring directly on the fabric. Mix thoroughly. In a perfect world, all your dye projects would be permanent, wash-fast, and live a long and vibrant life – but of course, sometimes there are snags. Fiber-reactive and acid dyes both chemically bond to the fibers they’re designed to dye, so these dyes will yield a permanent color on your fabric. However, years of regular washing and wearing will fade even the strongest of dyes, so the definition of ‘permanent’ in this case is still relative. Store your dyed items away from direct sunlight and wash them in cooler water in your washing machine to prolong their life. Before dyeing, remove any visible stains on the garment. This will help achieve uniform color results when dyeing. Pre-wash item in warm, soapy water without any fabric softener. This helps to remove any finishes that may interfere with dye absorption.Put a dust mask on before you open the jar of dye. Most powder dyes are lung irritants, so be safe. You can do this a little more successfully by mixing the acrylic pigment with a fabric medium. This is an additive that’s designed to provide flexibility and elasticity so that the concrete-like finish is eliminated. However, the fabric’s “hand” – that is, the way the fabric feels to touch – will be permanently altered by the acrylic, and depending on the fabric the level of permanence varies. To clean the washing machine: Wipe around the inside of the lid and pour a little bleach through the internal dispenser (if there is one) as dyes can get into these areas. Then, fill washer to the highest water level there is and select the hottest water temperature setting. Add detergent with 2 cups 470 mL of chlorine bleach and run a full wash cycle with 3 old towels. Pour the dye solution into the dispenser. Then, pour the salt or vinegar solution. Flush the dispenser thoroughly with 4 cups 950 mL more of hot tap water. Don’t hesitate to go for 2 separate dye baths if your coat is a blend of fibers and you haven’t achieved a good result with the first bath.

Also make sure to use this fixative in a plastic container you don’t care about getting stained or a stainless steel sink. I just used the same sink I dyed the dress in. Wear rubber gloves just like when you’re dyeing. If the garment you want to dye contains more than 35% synthetic material, you should use Rit’s dye for synthetic fabrics called Rit DyeMore. Rit DyeMore is specially made for synthetic fabrics like polyester, acrylic, acetate, plus blends that contain those fibers. Pre-wash and dry your item using detergent. If you’re dyeing a garment that’s been worn, use a stain treatment to lift any stains (especially sweat stains at the underarm!) as these may cause your garment to dye unevenly. Step 2: Calculate how much dye you need When desired color is achieved, remove from dye bath. Fabric will look darker when wet and will dry lighter. Squeeze out excess dye. Shake liquid dye bottle and mix dye with 4 cups 950 mL of hot water. Powder dye should be pre-dissolved in 2 cups 470 mL of hot water. Add diluted dye to the basin.Rit recommends using twice the usual recommended amount of dye for the weight of your fabric, and doubling the recommended time it spends in the dye bath, as well as using the post-dye Color-Stay Dye Fixative. Supplies: Well, it depends on what type of fiber you’re dyeing. I’m using 100% cotton fabric, so the Rit All-Purpose Dye is great. It’s designed for natural fabrics like cotton, linen, wool, silk, and ramie. It also dyes rayon and nylon.

We do not recommend using a front loading washing machine to dye extra large items or multiple items. I have a favorite dress from Boden. Boden is my favorite place to shop for work dresses (and even some casual dresses). They are expensive, but they hold up very well. And in the one case that I had a dress that didn’t hold up very well, Boden sent me a replacement free of charge.Set water temperature to the hottest possible setting and a wash cycle of at least 30 minutes or longer and start the cycle. Use dye that’s designed for the fiber content of your coat – acid dyes for wool and protein fibers, fiber-reactive for cotton, and disperse dyes for polyesters and synthetics. Occasionally I pulled the dress up and out of the water just to reposition it in the dye bath. But mostly I relied on the stirrer for the first 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes, I let the dress sit for 5 minute periods between stirring. Fill a plastic container or stainless steel sink with enough water for the fabric to move freely. We recommend using three gallons of water for every pound of fabric. The water should ideally be 140°F 60°C. If tap water is not hot enough, heat water on the stove and add to the dyebath. When desired color is achieved, remove from dyebath. Fabric will look darker when wet and will dry lighter.

Finally, I’d recommend at least one run through your washing machine alone (without anything you’re worried about staining) to be sure all the dye has washed out. Dye activator: Citric Acid or White Vinegar (from your local supermarket, both work equally well) for protein fibers, or Salt and Soda Ash for cellulose fibers.Kat has been sewing since her feet could reach the pedals, starting with quilts she made with her mom and eventually graduating to garments. She now makes everything she wears, occasionally teaches classes, and shares her projects on social media. Highlights include her wedding dress, shoemaking, and a love for almost any fabric that comes in hot pink! Read more… Next, add the dye, being careful not to pour directly on the fabric as this can cause dark spots. Step 5: Stir frequently until the dye is absorbed First I put a large pot of water on the stove to heat it up just a bit more than my sink could. In the meantime, I added about half of the amount of water I needed to my stainless steel sink. The gold topstitching thread on jeans is frequently polyester, so do keep in mind that this may not absorb fiber-reactive dye in the same way the fabric does. Additionally, if the jeans you’re dyeing are starting off quite dark blue, they’ll likely still have a tinge of blue once you’ve finished dyeing. This is less likely if you start with jeans that are a lighter color to begin with.