Color Space Conversions Decimal 16190746 Binary 11110111, 00001101, 00011010 Hexadecimal #f70d1a LRV ≈ 20.1% Closest short hex #e22 ΔE = 1.638 RGB rgb(247, 13, 26) RGBA rgba(247, 13, 26, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.864, g: 0.045, b: 0.091 RYB red: 96.863%, yellow: 5.098%, blue: 10.196% Android / android.graphics.Color -586470 / 0xfff70d1a HSL hsl(357, 94%, 51%) HSLA hsla(357, 94%, 51%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 357° (356.667), saturation: 95% (0.947), value: 97% (0.969) HSP hue: 356.667, saturation: 94.737%, perceived brightness: 53.221% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 11.666, S: 97.787, L: 51.999 Cubehelix H: -11.458, S: 1.653, L: 0.332 TSL T: 3.999, S: 0.810, L: 0.331 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 95% (0.947), yellow: 89% (0.895), key: 3% (0.031) CMY cyan: 3% (0.031), magenta: 95% (0.949), yellow: 90% (0.898) XYZ X: 38.693, Y: 20.143, Z: 2.828 xyY x: 0.627, y: 0.327, Y: 20.143 CIELab L: 51.999, a: 77.471, b: 58.011 CIELuv L: 51.999, u: 165.766, v: 34.227 CIELCH / LCHab L: 51.999, C: 96.783, H: 36.826 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 51.999, C: 169.263, H: 11.666 Hunter-Lab L: 44.881, a: 75.347, b: 27.681 CIECAM02 J: 45.768, C: 105.417, h: 29.455, Q: 133.287, M: 92.185, s: 83.164, H: 11.865 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.702, jaune: 6.806, green: -15.058 LMS L: 36.549, M: 6.986, S: 3.171 YCbCr Y: 88.579, Cb: 99.075, Cr: 229.803 YCoCg Y: 74.750, Cg: -61.750, Co: 117.000 YDbDr Y: 84.448, Db: -87.971, Dr: -309.101 YPbPr Y: 63.778, Pb: -20.410, Pr: 116.402 xvYCC Y: 70.774, Cb: 110.071, Cr: 230.251 YIQ Y: 84.448, I: 135.221, Q: 53.525 YUV Y: 84.448, U: -28.760, V: 142.610 Okhsl h: 27.692, s: 0.994, l: 0.555 Okhsv h: 27.692. s: 0.989, v: 0.970 Okhwb h: 27.692, w: 0.010, b: 0.030 Oklab l: 0.616, a: 0.220, b: 0.115 Oklch l: 0.616, c: 0.248, h: 27.692 Munsell Color System 7.5R 5/16 ΔE = 5.330 Brand Color Coca Cola ΔE = 1.250 Random Colors

Because I had painted a burgundy carapace, I wanted the skin to contrast with it, and pull from colours that matched the pelagic influences on some of the new miniatures. I started with Celestra Grey , and glazed down with colours like Fenrisian Grey and The Fang , and shaded the darkest areas with Druchii Violet , to keep everything suitably menacing. Will: Custom Splinter Fleet At the risk of going slightly off topic, I’d like to say that I prefer to start with khorne red, then wazdakka red, finishing with evil sunz scarlet completely eschewing Mephiston red. They are certainly differing levels on the dark-light scale, but I don’t think any of them have any ‘orange’ or ‘pink’ to them so they’re not going to clash. However, I’ll admit that this method is not going to give you a large amount of contrast if that’s what you’re looking for. It’s just textured enough for my taste whilst still being easy. The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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Color Charts Khorne red has a lot more blue in it than Mephiston, so it is a pretty good base color for red armor because it makes getting the dark contrasting areas less work. I envision the forces from my Tyranid splinter fleet absorbing bio-mass, adapting themselves to the warzone and changing their colours to match the environment. To this end I opted for a very ‘naturalistic’ scheme reminiscent of many insects and arachnids in our world – namely earthy tones with a lighter underbody and darker areas on any hard plates and carapaces.This poor cat was left abandoned when the nice old lady who owned her became destined for some kind of horrible giger-esqe kitbash. She was found wandering in the desert, so I gave her the forever-home she deserved. Color Space Conversions Decimal 15347496 Binary 11101010, 00101111, 00101000 Hexadecimal #ea2f28 LRV ≈ 19.7% Closest short hex #e22 ΔE = 1.002 RGB rgb(234, 47, 40) RGBA rgba(234, 47, 40, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.729, g: 0.146, b: 0.125 RYB red: 91.765%, yellow: 18.534%, blue: 15.686% Android / android.graphics.Color -1429720 / 0xffea2f28 HSL hsl(2, 82%, 54%) HSLA hsla(2, 82%, 54%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 2° (2.165), saturation: 83% (0.829), value: 92% (0.918) HSP hue: 2.165, saturation: 82.906%, perceived brightness: 52.395% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 12.846, S: 88.074, L: 51.479 Cubehelix H: -6.080, S: 1.272, L: 0.401 TSL T: 3.911, S: 0.587, L: 0.400 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 80% (0.799), yellow: 83% (0.829), key: 8% (0.082) CMY cyan: 8% (0.082), magenta: 82% (0.816), yellow: 84% (0.843) XYZ X: 35.336, Y: 19.684, Z: 3.946 xyY x: 0.599, y: 0.334, Y: 19.684 CIELab L: 51.479, a: 68.668, b: 50.157 CIELuv L: 51.479, u: 143.823, v: 32.798 CIELCH / LCHab L: 51.479, C: 85.036, H: 36.145 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 51.479, C: 147.515, H: 12.846 Hunter-Lab L: 44.367, a: 64.521, b: 25.784 CIECAM02 J: 44.799, C: 91.232, h: 29.372, Q: 131.869, M: 79.781, s: 77.782, H: 11.757 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.750, jaune: 6.072, green: -13.027 LMS L: 33.710, M: 8.576, S: 4.254 YCbCr Y: 103.746, Cb: 97.251, Cr: 210.590 YCoCg Y: 92.000, Cg: -45.000, Co: 107.000 YDbDr Y: 102.115, Db: -93.481, Dr: -250.790 YPbPr Y: 86.327, Pb: -25.005, Pr: 93.822 xvYCC Y: 90.140, Cb: 106.035, Cr: 210.416 YIQ Y: 102.115, I: 113.648, Q: 37.364 YUV Y: 102.115, U: -30.565, V: 115.705 Okhsl h: 28.313, s: 0.954, l: 0.545 Okhsv h: 28.313. s: 0.921, v: 0.922 Okhwb h: 28.313, w: 0.073, b: 0.078 Oklab l: 0.608, a: 0.195, b: 0.105 Oklch l: 0.608, c: 0.222, h: 28.313 Munsell Color System 7.5R 5/16 ΔE = 2.818 Brand Color Verizon ΔE = 1.519 Random Colors The other pitfall is not enough shading. I think having extremely hard shadows in the recesses of red armor is essential for preserving detail at a distance, because you can't rely on just highlighting for the reasons discussed above.

This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable. My goal here is to get a nice fade going on the models. I’ll then use Carroburg to darken the edges around the armor trim. With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work. Carefully drybrush only the most heavily corroded iron and steel areas with Ryza Rust. Next, because rust has a tendency to break out in recessed areas, create a 1:2 mix of Fire Dragon Bright and Lahmian Medium - apply this to the recesses of the iron and steel areas. Apply multiple coats if you’d like it to be a little brighter. I’d recommend being somewhat selective about which recesses you apply this too, and applying it to everything can look a bit over the top and unrealistic. The Blood Angels Space Marines: The Blood Angels are a chapter of Space Marines known for their red color scheme. Wild Rider Red is a great choice for painting the armor of this chapter, it matches their official red color and makes it easy to achieve a consistent look across all your miniatures.If you’re looking for advice on how to paint Angron, the World Eaters’ Daemon primarch, you can find that article here. Three coats of Daler Rowney FW Crimson acrylic ink. Each coat brings more vibrance to the red, so do as many as you feel you need. If you want more of the purple tones from the official GW schemes, try using either Process Magenta or Purple Lake as your first layer, or mixing it into the Crimson. The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. The white armor got primed with Stynylrez Grey, and an initial coat of Vallejo Model Air White Grey was applied. I built up highlights with Vallejo Model Air Insignia White and Vallejo Model Air White (using the final pure white only very sparingly). If I was doing these again I’d probably use ProAcryl Titanium White instead. It’s not a different color, but it’s the nicest white I’ve used and I need to sing its praises everywhere. I hit them all with a Satin Varnish at this point – you can make satin by mixing gloss and matte roughly 50:50. Red highlights are perceived as different colors more easily than others. You can add white but then the highlights are "pink", or you can add yellow, but then they read as "orange". When we paint blue, green, yellow armor, we tend to just process those colors' highlights as "light blue" or "light green". This is sort of arbitrary and a byproduct of our color naming conventions, but I think it has an impact on how we perceive color. That means that you need to highlight with a much more careful and precise hand than other colors, because when the pink or orange stray too far from extreme edges, you negate the sense of "red". That just doesn't seem to be the case with other colors. This highlighting problem leads a lot of people to try to get away with not adding enough highlights, going for a more flat red "realistic" look, but most of the time that approach doesn't look good from more than about a forearm's length away, and doesn't photograph very well either.

If you are looking to buy some new paints that stand out and compliment your miniatures then look no further, it is no secret that Citadel paints are some of the best in the business both in popularity and quality. Whether you want to buy paint for basing, highlighting, shading, creating texture or just touching up already painted models Games Workshop makes it all and we have it here. Between the Citadel Contrast, Base, Shade, Dry, Layer and Technical ranges you will find every paint you could ever need in the Citadel paints category. There’s other little details that can be painted but this is my stopping point for a non-display miniature. This is the general workflow I use for most of my miniatures and I find that it is a nice mix of speed and detail for me. Dylan Gould’s MethodWhen I first met Porter, he was carrying powder for a regiment of Empire Handgunners. Knowing that gunpowder and monkeys are a disaster waiting to happen, I sent him off to the Talabheim Tappers, a local Free Company Militia regiment where he could be safe and oh god he’s GOT A KNIFE Gloss varnish the whole thing. While the acrylic inks dry fairly glossy, they’re a pretty fragile coat that you want to add some protection to. Cadian Fleshtone: Cadian Fleshtone is a pale, neutral flesh color that can be used to create highlights and shadows on the red armor of Wild Rider Red miniatures. As a flesh-coloured paint, it can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature, making the red appear more dynamic. I start with Mephiston base spray, and then immediately HEAVILY cover the whole model with carrowburg crimson, like a ton, and then I do a "wet" dry brush of mephiston again over the majority of the flat spaces. I then clean up and re-articulate any sunken parts with precise use of carrowburg that might have gotten hit by the dry brush. I then do the same thing with red sunz Scarlett. I then do a light pink dry brush and clean up anything not on an extreme edge, then use bloodletter glaze to tie things together where they need it. I then do a careful line highlight with a light pink, and again carefully make sure to modulate the highlights with bloodletter. They've also got their speedpaints range if you fancy something like Contrast but cheaper. I've bought a few now. They go on smoother more easily than Contrast, but you still need to be somewhat careful with coverage and soaking up pools on flat surfaces, but the results can be pretty impressive, I'd say this is accurate.

The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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Color Charts I painted the off-yellow skin in slightly different ways on my Barbgaunts, Psychophage, and Von Ryan’s Leapers – employing various combos of Plaguebearer Flesh and thinned-down Nazdreg Yellow over a Wraithbone base, with highlights ranging from Dorn Yellow to Flayed One Flesh – but they all still look like closely-related beasties. I’ve got yet another approach in mind for my Termagants… These Citadel Layer paints from Games Workshop are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and itself, without any mixing. If you use several layers of this high-quality water based acrylic paint on your models it will create a rich and natural finish that will look as amazing on display as it would 3 hours into a gruelling battle. The paints are supplied in 12ml pots and can be used on any plastic, metal or resin models.Apply another layer of Ultra Matte Varnish to bind the pigment and give the whole model a consistent finish. The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex. I don't actually think the exact paints/washes you use matter as much as simply attending to those issues. I've used Coelia Greenshade in the crevices and that works pretty well, but lately I've been just using carrowburg crimson because it's easier, although it doesn't get the same dark shade in the grooves.