You use a stringer to increase structural strength. We usually recommend a 2"x4", 2" x 6", 2" x 8", or 2" x 10" stringer depending on the application Folks installing the pull-up bar in their basement can skip this step as they will be drilling the wood board directly into concrete. On the other hand, make sure you don’t drill the pull-up bar into a false ceiling. Step Three — Screw Together the Pull-Up Bar

It’s the second cheapest pullup bar in this roundup, and, as a result, is one of the least heavy-duty with a weight capacity of 300-pounds. If you're weighing in under ~150-pounds, easy installation, multi-grip versatility, and an great price makes this a reasonable choice. Four Wall Anchors and Screws: To secure the flanges to the doorframe. They should be the same size as the pipes. In this article, we will go over everything you need to know about DIY wall-mounted, ceiling-mounted, doorway, and freestanding pull-up bars. We will also explore the benefits of building a DIY pull-up bar. We have a lot to cover, so sit tight and read on. Why Build a DIY Pull-Up Bar? While a wall-mounted pull-up bar or a doorway bar can do little more than enable you to perform pull-ups, one that hooks to your doorframe is more versatile than you might think. Many hook-on models can be incorporated into a press-up routine, making each rep that little bit harder, and some can also be used to keep your feet planted to the ground while doing sit-ups.Plus, you can alter the dimensions of the pull-up bar depending on where you’ll be installing it and the exercises you intend to perform. Case in point — the CrossFit pull-over. To perform a pull-over, you should have enough space between the bar and wall to pass through. Most wall-mounted pull-up bars are too close to the wall to complete the pull-over. Technically, this isn't a pull up bar, but more like two individual pull up clamps with handles. But, it’s a unique device that’s designed for the same purpose as a pullup bar. Plus it’s compact, lightweight (just 3.5 lbs for the set), and portable enough to toss in a suitcase or gym bag and take with you just about anywhere. The temporary “installation” (if you can call it that) requires nothing more than clamping each side to a door frame, and the whole process takes less than ten seconds. Reverse the process to remove and reclamp them at a friend’s house, at your vacation Airbnb, or anywhere else you want to get in an upper-body workout. Each clamp set supports a decent 250-pound weight capacity—enough for most users. Duonamic also claims the non-marking design will not damage or scuff up your doorway. verifyErrors }}{{ message }}{{ /verifyErrors }}{{

Attaching the pull-up bar to the ceiling can be difficult, and you might need someone to assist you. However, it is worth the extra effort, as a ceiling-mounted pull-up bar gives you the extra leg room to swing your legs to perform kipping pull-ups, front levers, or muscle-ups without banging your toes or heels into a wall. Tools & Materials: There are two common designs most often used for pull-up bars. One design features a temporary placement of the bar along the molding of the top of one side of a door frame, while on the other side of the frame is used as leverage. This type of design uses bodyweight to maintain enough pressure to keep the equipment secured. An alternative type of design involves a simple bar that can extend to fill the width of most door frames. This type of pull-up bar usually needs to be screwed into the door frame to properly secure it. From New York City studio apartments to massive garage gyms, in our opinion, everyone should be doing some sort of pull-up. Location, training style, and ability to install are just a few of the things you should consider before buying a pull-up bar. But we think there’s one thing beyond consideration: You should definitely have one in your training arsenal. To Install or Not to InstallAttach the boards to the ceiling using washers and wood screws in the pre-drilled holes. Using washers will prevent the screws from sliding out during your workout. Then, screw the pull-up bar to the wooden board using wood screws. Step Six — Test Two Flanges: Two ¾-inch floor flanges. These will help you mount the bar to the doorway. Make sure these match the diameter of the metal pipe. Advanced variations: Experienced exercisers can try typewriter pull-ups, front-lever pull-ups, or even muscle-ups. You might not be able to do all that right away. For some people, eking out even one rep is an accomplishment worth striving for, so you can't just jump up to the bar and pull. You might have to break the move down to its component parts. To really master the form, work your way up from dead hangs to full-on reps using this guide.