Nowadays though theres better things available, Dinitrol is good, I used this in my Capri and so far had no rust at all in all treated areas. But I now use Bilt Hamber Dynax s50, it is superb stuff, and again ive not had any rust in treated areas. True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this... So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside) hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future.

Clutching hot waxoil injector thingy, part filled with waxoil and mixed with very very warm white spirit I squirted and soaked the chassis blasting away, and also practising holding my breath as it went misty in the workshop. later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?"Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid. Greases: These use oil as the carrier. Dinitrol is a grease type. Dinitrol is expensive and by the time you have bought or hired a gun and compressor and quite a few canisters of Dinitrol, you may be approaching the cost of a proper Before 'n' After treatment.

If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily! I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip:I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started. Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and