Keep your photos in a cool, dry place such a shoe box for 30 days after exposure. You can store the photos in an album or sleeve once the 30-day window has passed.

Multiple exposures: Here is a neat tip I learned from photographer Matt Day. Though the camera doesn’t have a dedicated function, you can easily create multiple exposures by holding the shutter button down after you’ve taken a shot, turning the camera off so it cannot eject the film, releasing the shutter button, and then turning the camera on again. Basically this lets you take additional exposure with the same slide of film. The results aren’t that impressive but it’s fun nonetheless. The camera’s modernity is also obvious in the small self-timer button on the front for triggering an instant film selfie. A switch below the viewfinder on the front allows for brightening or darkening the image, another feature not on the original camera. Sitting beside the finder is the fixed focus 106mm lens with a field of view of 41° (vertical) and 40° (horizontal). This gives you a diagonal angle of view of 57°, which is close to the field of view of a 40mm lens in 35mm format terms. It is constructed from optical grade polycarbonate and acrylic and has a range of 60cm to infinity. Don’t make the mistake of trying to focus at less than 60cm – your photos will end up blurry! Battery/Charging: It has a lithium-ion battery and charges by USB, which is awesome. So when you’re on your way to a shoot and realize you forgot to charge your camera, you can just plug it in in the car. Indoors, Polaroid says the built-in flash helps to color balance the images, but we still found the shots to be a bit too yellow. Of course, maybe that’s desirable as part of the 1970s look and feel. Our TakeOf course, the image quality isn’t “good” by any modern metric, but that’s part of the “perfect imperfection” that Polaroid Originals says makes an instant film picture. Images are always a bit soft, which sometimes complements the desaturated aesthetic, but can also obscure some of the best parts of the scene. Ich habe mir vorher das Polaroid Modell von Fuji (wenn die so hießen) angesehen, fand die Bildgröße jedoch ziemlich enttäuschend, da diese im Vergleich zu den Polaroid Originals Bildern hier nur halb so groß waren. Daher war dies kein Fall für mich.

If you shoot towards the light — going agains the recommendations — the lens sometimes flares and causes portions of the photo to blow out. Unfortunately, the flare isn’t an artsy, rainbow-style effect, but a white blob at the edge of the photo. You can usually tell through the viewfinder when this is going to happen, and can even prevent it by shielding the lens with one hand, a sort of makeshift lens hood, but this isn’t always easy to do and you risk getting your hand in the photo if you’re not careful. Now all that’s left is to take your very first shot. We’ve found that most of the time, the camera is able to guess the right exposure on its own, but if you want to experiment, there are a few manual controls you can adjust:Another issue I found was that images featuring lots of open sky sometimes had small white dots – an issue that other reviewers have reported as well. Polaroid Originals does state that their film works best between 13 – 28°C and that at lower temperatures, they tend to emerge over-exposed with less colour contrast and a green tint. Knowing this, I made a point to store the photos close to my body when shooting in colder temperatures but it didn’t really make a difference.

The aperture range isn’t known, nor the shutter speeds, but exposure control is programmed to some extent, including again balancing flash and daylight. According to Polaroid Originals, the shutter is a “custom design using [a] precision step motor”, but that’s as much as they’re giving away. There are a few functions on the OneStep 2. You have the flash with flash override, the light/dark switch, and the self-timer.

Vintage Polaroid Cameras and Film

The Polaroid Now is our latest model. It has all the features of the OneStep 2, but with a few extras. The Polaroid Now’s strongest feature is its lens. It has an autofocus 2-lens system, which means it switches between a portrait and landscape lens based on what you are trying to photograph. The OneStep 2, on the other hand, has a fixed focus lens. This means you need to adjust your distance yourself to get your subject in focus for sharp photographs. Another extra with the Polaroid Now is the double exposure feature. Just two taps of the self-timer button and you can capture two moments in the one photograph for greater creative expression. Note that for this review, I only used the colour i-Type film. I hope to try out the B&W version soon and perhaps write a dedicated article! The shell of the camera itself is made from a mix of polycarbonate and ABS plastics, resulting in a lightweight yet fairly robust body. Because it doesn’t feature weather-sealing, it is best to keep it stored away on miserable days. To avoid a blurry photo, make sure you are at least 60cm (2 feet) away from your subject when you take the picture. For the best results, always try to shoot with your light source behind you.

Light/Dark Switch: This is basically your exposure compensation switch. If you’d like your image to be brighter and exposed longer, switch it to right where you see the “+” sign. If you’d like it darker, switch it to the “-” sign.Warning: Shooting without flash will reduce camera performance and picture quality in most lighting situations except brightly-lit, sunny environments. We recommend always shooting with flash. Although bankruptcy forced the Polaroid Corporation to cease production of instant film products in 2008, its legacy lives on in the form of Polaroid Originals, a Dutch company formerly known as the Impossible Project. The lens – made from optical-grade polycarbonate and coated to reduce flare – has a focal length of 106mm (roughly equivalent to 40mm) and again the focus is fixed, this time from around 60 centimetres to infinity. Note: Remember that the viewfinder sits slightly above and to the right of the camera’s lens — above and to the left from your perspective when shooting — so you will need to adjust your aim to compose your shot correctly when shooting at distances of 1.2 meters or less. Learn more about aiming and framing with the OneStep 2 in this article.