Cut into Sections: Instead of scoring the plasterboard, it’s usually easier to cut it into larger sections. Using a utility knife, cut the plasterboard into about 2-foot by 2-foot sections. Be mindful of what’s behind the wall to avoid cutting into any electrical wires or plumbing. The Dust Extractor come in different sizes and unique configurations from each other. The variability is because of the type of filtration that each of them is able to deal with. As you choose on the devices, you have to make sure that you select the one that suits the type of wall you are going to work on and not just any that you come across in the market. You can wear gloves, the eyewear and earplugs to enhance your safety since the exercise is a dangerous one and anything is likely to happen to you.

If you have a hole saw you can simply cut the wood around the nail, again if you have located the nails in the board. You can then use a screwdriver and pliers to pull out. Another option is to use a multi tool with a small saw blade and cut through the skirting board both sides of the radiator pipes. Then you can gently prise away the skirting with a crowbar. If there’s no lath, it means that your wall is likely made from plasterboard (also known as drywall), which is a different kind of wall construction that doesn’t use lath and plaster. In this case, the process of removing the plasterboard would be different. If decorators' caulk has been used to fill any gaps, get a Stanley knife and carefully run the blade between the skirting and the wall to cut through the caulk.Hold the chisel at a slight angle to the wall, placing its edge on one of the scored lines. With your other hand, tap the end of the chisel lightly with the hammer. The goal is to use enough force to break the plaster along the scored lines, but not so much that you damage the underlying lath too severely or risk punching through the wall into wiring or plumbing. Breaking Up the Plaster

The process of breaking up the plaster is a gradual one and patience is key to ensure the work is done effectively and safely. There are test kits available which come with all the necessary protective clothing and gear that allow you to take samples yourself and then send them to a lab for testing. When the results are confirmed they let you know the result. You can buy one of these test kits here. Start with the skirting and several inches above it, all the way along the wall's length. Then go to the top of the walls and work downwards. The reason for this is simple - if you started from the top of the walls, then the skirting will get covered with fallen plaster that will only serve to get in the way when you reach the bottom. Due to this, you will need to identify where the screws are and dig out the filler to unscrew them. Typically before 1984, asbestos was used to strengthen artex so if your house is old there is a very good chance that asbestos may be present in your artex. Despite this, asbestos could still be used all the way up to 2000 by a license holder so even if your house is fairly new, don’t assume that there is none present!Use Different Tools: If increasing the force isn’t working or isn’t an option, you could try using different tools. A pry bar might be useful to get underneath the plaster and apply pressure in a different way. Proceeding with Caution: It’s important to be cautious during this process. Some chunks of plaster may be quite heavy, so be ready to support them as they break free. Try to avoid pulling the plaster away from the wall; instead, let it break and fall naturally to prevent larger, uncontrolled chunks from falling. To my relief, I'd found the source of my damp problems once I'd taken off the old skirting - the plaster had been taken right down to the ground floor slab!