Here’s my list, together with my idea of their contributions. I only feel totally sure about two names – Kirkus and Brown. They're the only two who've been prolifically way ahead of the field. That's the most telling point, isn't it? Joe's upbringing, from everything I now gather, was at least as hard as Don's and, economically, more so. Yet it was happy. Chris Bonington first climbed with Whillans in 1958. He grew up in a one-parent family and, though well spoken, was more of an outsider than his contemporaries assumed.

Don Whillans was a hilarious speaker, very funny, modest and authoritative. The most hilarious lecture I ever heard him present was the one about Roraima, including the famous line, It was in this era that climbers throughout the country began developing and experimenting with new methods of aid and protection. As ideas and innovations spread, more and more climbers advanced to the outer limits of their vertical environment. With the safety element raised, thresholds of difficulty were pushed even further, and the demand for more refined equipment continued to escalate. Consequently, like many others nurtured in this exciting time of expanding frontiers, three people, who were later to form Troll, Alan Waterhouse, Paul Seddon and Tony Howard, each individually became involved in developing new concepts in climbing gear.So there's a lot to like about him. But then there's the bad stuff. Propensity for violence, reputation around women, alcoholism etc. I think it's worth noting some of the bad stuff went beyond the "lovable rougue" categoryand tipped him into the "utter bastard"or even the "complete c***" categories, and I think it's for this reason he was never lauded or honored as much as his contemporaries. With his high-altitude career apparently over, Whillans returned to drink. He spent his final years appearing at festivals , playing up to his image as the straight-talking northerner with the ready put-down. It's a hard choice right enough, but I think people are ludicrously overestimating the contribution of recent generations. Owen Glynne Jones and perhaps Siegfried Herford both deserve far more consideration than they’re getting. Fowler – a great climber and no error, but how influential was he, in the sense of making a difference to the direction climbing took? I also wonder about John Dunne. What’s happened that wouldn’t have happened if he’d been around? Same with Fawcett, in a way. The best of his day and one of the best ever, of course, but I’m not sure that’s the question. I don’t know that Pete Crew didn’t have more influence than he gets credit for, also. Certainly in the way of introducing professionalism I’d say he was as influential as perhaps any climber before or since. Redhead was also very influential in keeping the flame alight – more so even than Dawes, perhaps. In 1995 crag rat and competition climber Graham Desroy complete with flowery shirts, white flares and surfboards joined the Troll sales team. Evidently the thought of working with Graham was too much for the founders who swiftly retired after 30 years in the hot seat. Alan is a keen sailor and now spends much of his time on his beloved boat. Paul is sill actively involved in the industry and still sits on the relevant BMC and European Standards Committees. Tony and his long time partner Di Taylor, then a member of Troll's design team, continue to spend their time exploring remote areas of the world. In 1999 Tony received a Geographical Award on behalf of Troll from the Royal Geographical Society for the design and supply of expedition equipment. Jim Curran, one of Don's best friends in later days, listened to one of Don's performances. Don started out by showing an old group photo saying "You may wonder why I've included this. (Pause) That's me in the middle of the picture, but, over on the left corner is a girl I'd never spoken to at the time. (A longer pause) That's me wife Audrey. (An even longer pause) Which just goes to show that danger lurks when you least expect it ... "

Bonington went on to lead further Himalayan expeditions – the Everest Southwest Face expedition of 1975 was a direct successor, with Boysen and Thompson participating, and Haston among those who reached the summit. On this occasion, Burke died when attempting the summit by himself. [105] Whillans was invited on no more Bonington expeditions. Haston died skiing off piste on the Swiss Alps in 1977, and Estcourt was killed in 1978 on K2 on another Bonington expedition. [106] By 1984, Pasang Kami owned the most lavish hotel in Kathmandu, built up from a yak shelter. It had a penthouse restaurant and was even equipped with electric lighting. [107] For me, the book also failed to give any insights into Don & Audrey's relationship. Even as a child of 10, it had seemed "unusual" to me, what with them both going off on expeditions and having no kids. Audrey probably deserves a book of her own and certainly a larger part in Don's story. Again, she isn't with us any longer so she can't comment on what Jim Perrin has said.My few memories of Don, apart from family gatherings at Christmas and such, are from the house at Penmaenmawr. I went there with my family several times when they had just moved in. On 16 March, Whillans, Thompson, and two Sherpas went ahead of the main parties to reconnoitre the route and to find a suitable place for the base camp. [27] A temporary location was found to be at the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary at the location of a previous base camp: that of the 1957 expedition to Machapuchare. [28] [29] The overhanging wall of ice they called the "Sword of Damocles" had collapsed on 23 May so they thought the location had become less dangerous. However, there were ice towers higher up and it was one of these that fell. [99]