For additional weathering on vehicles, apply a coat of matt varnish all over the model, then once dry, thin down Raw Umber oil paint with mineral spirit, wash into the recesses, then very carefully wipe away any excess with a cotton bud dipped in mineral spirit. You have to be extremely careful with this part, if you rub too excessively, you run the risk of wearing away the paint underneath. I am also curious if anyone has used GW's Lupercal Green as a base followed by SoH Green and then highlight with something else like Kabalite or Sybarite. Perhaps using some Coelia Greenshade either over it or as a recess shade. Here are a few other Colour Citadel paints that would pair well with Lupercal Green, to create a wide range of moods and styles, from fresh and modern to warm and welcoming to dramatic and sophisticated.

This is the video I originally got the idea from, and while I haven't tried it out myself, a friend used a variation on the Imperial Fist version for their 30k primaris marines below: Adriano La Regina (formerly Rome's archaeological superintendent 1976–2004, professor of Etruscology at Sapienza University of Rome), [7] Professor Fausto Zevi (professor of Roman Archaeology at Rome's La Sapienza University) [8] and Professor Henner von Hesberg (head of the German Archaeological Institute, Rome) [9] denied the identification of the grotto with Lupercal on topographic and stylistic grounds. They concluded that the grotto is actually a nymphaeum or underground triclinium from Neronian times. The current scholarly consensus is that the grotto is not the Lupercal and that the cave was located lower southwest, closer to piazza Sant'Anastasia al Palatino. [10] [11] See also [ edit ] Space Wolves – A loyalist Space Marine army in the Warhammer 40K universe, and their color scheme often features deep greens and blues. Lupercal Green would be a great choice for painting the armor, weapons, and other details on Space Wolves miniatures, helping to bring out the fierce, predatory nature of the Space Wolves and their legendary leader, Leman Russ. Fulgurite Copper was the basecoat for the molten insides, as well as the flames. I shaded it with thinned Fyreslayer Flesh, and drybrushed the raised flames with a mix of 50% Fulgurite Copper and 50% Stormhost Silver. For the characters, I kept the same elements but reconfigured. The Primus is obviously quite similar to the Cultists, but the Magus trades some of the blue for his rich purple robes.

I painted the whole cape Gal Vorbak Red, with two thin coats. I then layered up with Khorne Red, a blend of Khorne Red and Mephiston Red, Mephiston Red, and then a last highlight of a blend of Mephiston Red and Averland Sunset. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo

To get river/lake looking shiny I just kinda pour some gloss varnish from the bottle on, you will want a paper clip or something to poke any bubbles. The penultimate step is painting the rims with your choice of paint, in this case I used dryad to match my Tyranids. The last model thing the models need is to throw on some tufts, I like using these ones from Gamers Grass: Genestealer Cults Patriarch. In his hand he has a Blood Angels helmet and on his base is a Crimson Fist, neatly covering my two Marine armies. Credit: Corrode I basecoated Horus’ head with two thin layers of Reaper Kobold Scale, but any reddish-brown will work. I then painted the recesses under the eyes/nose and mouth with Gal Vorbak Red. Gal Vorbak Red is a purple/red, and works well as a shadow color to the reddish-brown of Kobold Scale. Then, I did two glazes of Bugman’s glow. The first glaze was painted all over. The second glaze layer was painted just on the raised areas, leaving the GV Red and Kobold Scale just in the recesses. From there, I slowly layered up to Cadian Fleshtone, and then a blend of Cadian Fleshtone and Pallid Witch Flesh for the most prominent areas of his head.It’s a shade that’s as vibrant as a jungle and as fierce as a predator, yet it’s also rich and nuanced, like the scales of a dragon. Purple: Naggaroth Night and then Xereus Purple (I love, love Xereus Purple), washed Druchii Violet, and then re-layered Xereus on the higher parts and highlighted with, fittingly, Genestealer Purple. Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference,

Flesh Tearers Red: This bold, fiery red paint would provide a dramatic contrast to the cool tones of Lupercal Green, creating a look that is energetic and exciting. Decorative Metal (Icons, Leaders’ Weapons): – Base with Balthasar Gold. – Wash with Agrax Earthshade. – Drybrush with Hashut Copper. – Lightly Drybrush with Sycorax Bronze, focused on the edges. I find it really useful to paint the heads as a separate subassembly, it really helps to get the faces right if you have 360 degree access to them, rather than struggling to paint them when they’re surrounded by a high collar. Whether you’re looking to add a touch of regal flair to your tabletop army or just want to bring your models to life, the Lupercal Green paint is sure to make an impact. What armies to paint with Lupercal Green? For me, at least, painting Horus’ armor was similar to if I painted 40K Guilliman’s power armor in Abaddon’s colors. There is a lot of subtle sculpted detail on the armor. To that end, drybrushing was a very good friend to help me make sure the armor detail became visible.Genestealer Cults are some particularly interesting antagonists in the 40k fiction. They haven’t really had a chance to shine as protagonists in their own right, but show up in various roles in other books as threats of varying levels. I haven’t read these, but if you’re interested in reading more, I’ve generally heard good things about the following books: GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) Horus turns out to be one of the easier Forge World Primarchs to build, consisting of only a few pieces with some relatively intuitive places. You have Horus’ body, his right arm (with the Talon of Horus), left arm (with Worldbreaker), his cape with part of the wolf pelt, his head, and two sets of pturges – one for his crotch and one for his right arm. For the most part, I kept all of these parts separate for sub-assembly purposes.