The top piece (green) is 6-1/4" tall x 10-1/2" wide (This includes 1/2" seam allowance on all sides). NOTE: the height will be shorter on the curved edges, but the middle of the top of the curve should be 5-3/4" tall. If you are using faux suede like I did, use a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to avoid the shredding sides that I got because I cut the faux suede with fabric shears. tall x 10-1/2" wide (with curved edges matching the sides of the green top piece, or trim it to the shape after sewing the seams) dark brown piece, set aside yard Cotton lining fabric (I found a cool cork-looking tan cotton fabric that has a design on it that reminds me of textures you see frequently on Star Wars) First things first...with faux suede you need to know the nap. Now, Jar Jar Binks may want to take in a good nap, but that's not what we're talking about here.

Faux suede isn't known to shrink too much, I've read, so it's really only necessary to preshrink the interfacing IF you want to be able to wash your bag without trouble. If you are wanting to wash your bag and are scared the faux suede may shrink, feel free to pre-shrink all your materials (except the foam padding). Slide in the interfacing like you would elastic. I used a safety pin on the end of the interfacing to help guide it through the long tube. This part is actually much easier than everything you just did. And now that you've sewn the bag together, this should be a much simpler duplication of that process. Also, you will only make the lining go up HALFWAY up the sides, as the zipper panel's raw edges won't be noticeable once the bag is turned right-side out. However, you can make a lining that covers up the zipper panel's raw edges, too, if you want (if you choose this approach, you would sew up to the zipper instead of just half way). Cut a side panel that is the height of both sides (each of my sides were 6" tall), plus the length of the bottom. This will match the width of the bag plus 1/2" seam allowances around all sides.You should spot clean faux suede, or wash it on a gentle cycle and hang dry or spot dry. When washing, use cold or warm water with little detergent and little softener. Because this bag has interfacing, DO NOT put it in the dryer! Steam press if wrinkles occur with a damp pressing cloth.

NOTE: You can make your shoulder straps longer if needed. I just used this size because it worked well with the size of the bag. On the designated bottom of each shoulder strap, add the D-ring straps into the middle so they sit against the right-side of the fabric. Align the middle of the D-ring strap with the seam you just sewed (which should now be placed in the center of the shoulder strap). Make it so the D-rings sit INSIDE the "housing" and the end of the D-ring straps sit flush with the to-be-sewn short side. Repeat for both pieces. Ultimately, this is up to you. However, to get the shaded look of real suede, you should cut on the cross grain of the fabric. I'll save you the hours of research and countless videos I watched, and just summarize the information I learned for if you choose to work with faux suede for your project, too. You can thank me later! NOTE: Embroidering by hand will take you a LONG time. It took me 4 hours to do. Whether it's because I'm a noob, or because I don't yet know how to do embroidery with my fancy doo-dah sewing machine, it still took me awhile. Be patient, throw on a good movie or TV series, and get to embroidering!Lift up the shoulder straps so they're out of the way, and sew 1/4" seam allowance along the bottom of the horizontal strap. NOTE: I didn't line mine, but if you were hoping to line yours, line it BEFORE you sew it down to the bag. Fold the fabric lengthwise, and sew with 1/2" seam allowance along the raw edges (keeping the RIGHT sides together). Do this for both pieces. This will make a "housing" for the pads to slip into (therefore, avoiding any extra seams on the long side, except the one). DO NOT sew the two short ends of either piece. Also, KEEP THE FABRIC WRONG-SIDE OUT. Slip the handle/hanger under it (at least 1/2" on each side of the handle/hanger should go under it). You will even this out with the shoulder strap's middle seam lines (as seen in picture 3). NOTE: The ear shape is organic, so use my photos here to guide you, or design your own shape from an inspiration photo of your own.

Your item will be declared as "lost" if you haven't received anything after 60 days. After this time, we'll be able to send you a replacement and enter a claim in with Royal Mail on your behalf. You can feel the nap of a fabric by running your hand on the surface of the cloth. If the fibers stand up when you run your hand in one direction, that's "against the nap." If they lay down smooth, that's "with the nap." OPTIONAL: You can do a second topstitch (aka French seam) if your zipper tape is wide enough to hold one. If it's not, you can try using a thin paper under your machine to sew a for-show second topstitch (removing the paper afterwards). Otherwise, you can omit the second topstitch altogether.In the first two pictures of this step, the first picture is "against the nap." You will see the fibers are raised up and rougher looking. The second picture is "with the nap." You will see that the fibers look smoother. If you cut "against the nap," the effect will be a richer, darker look. If you cut "with the nap," the effect will be a softer, lighter look. to 1/8 yard Dark Green home-décor or outdoor fabric (or faux suede if you find it) This is for the middle of the ears, so make sure the color matches the color family of the Yoda-Green you chose (both of mine were a warm olive-ish color). To prepare the front of the bag for sewing, fold the ears in and hold them together with a binder clip. Fold over the top of the shoulder straps and slide those under the brown horizontal strip too, as shown. I had the seams of the straps facing outward, because it matched my inspiration picture. Plus, it made a great way to line up the hanger/handle with. Buy a zipper slide (as seen in picture 1). Usually they will be called a "Fix-A-Zipper" in places like Walmart.

Nap is the texture of a fabric with the raised fibers of the fabric going in a particular direction (this property of fabric is woven into it). To get the nap, a secondary yarn is woven through the cloth which creates that raised fibers property. To start that process, we need to add a gusset (aka: the fabric that extends from the zipper on either side). Take your 12" zipper and sew it right sides together with the first piece of fabric. Your seam allowance should be 1/4". MAKE SURE THE FABRIC IS CENTERED ON THE ZIPPER SIDE (the zipper will hang out both ends of the fabric). NOTE: Your finished piece will be different from mine. I got too small of a zipper, but it was all I could find since this pandemic has limited what's in stores. So, if you can get ahold of a 12" zipper, you will be good to go (and will avoid the problem I ran into later)! NOTE: The extra dark brown piece you see in the first picture that has curved edges will be used in a future step. So cut it out for now using the dimensions below, then set it aside.ALWAYS TEST YOUR MACHINE SETTINGS ON SCRAP FABRIC BEFORE SEWING ONTO THE ACTUAL BAG. Do this every time you change up the fabrics or add in another layer. Yoda and Baby Yoda have one big important detail that makes them the cute little creatures they are: their ears!