Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Warplock Bronze

£23.095
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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Warplock Bronze

Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Warplock Bronze

RRP: £46.19
Price: £23.095
£23.095 FREE Shipping

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The important thing to remember when edge highlighting, is you want the paint to be thinned so it flows easily from the brush but not so much that it will run everywhere.

Pendulin’s Shadowkeepers scheme can be found in a separate article – How to Paint Everything: Adeptus Custodes Shadowkeepers. Optional) Paint the armor with Satin Varnish to give it a nice sheen (pure gloss varnish is too shiny)!If, like OP says, they want the majority to be dark bronze with lighter accents I'd suggest reading this tutorial and missing out the verdigris part (unless you want to keep it, it does look awesome). Wash the reds with Nuln Oil to darken the robes down more than an Agrax or Carroburg Crimson wash would do. We want some deep rich colors to set off the pale white. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference,

Add dots of pure white over the previous steps. This is the bit where suddenly it looks like metal and it’s very satisfying. You really are aiming for small dots (unless it’s a vehicle then you can go for bigger patches. Reds Flesh Wash: A reddish-brown wash for shading caucasian flesh, also useful for shading gold and copper. Compared to Reikland Fleshshade, it’s a nuance less reddish and it settles better in the recesses. We use DHL for our main courier. The delivery guide for this is next working day to 2 working days. The longer period is for areas such as the Highlands and Islands of the UK. I airbrush Citadel Mephiston Red as a highlight. You can do this with a brush but this is why you buy an airbrush because it’s so much simpler with one.Olorin the Ancient wrote:Metal responds extremely well to drybrushing. Layering is by far the best technique for skin and leather and most cloth, and when you want to have a really bright shiny metal, but for dull metals or bronze, I think that drybrushing isn't just easier, but actually works better. Gun Metal: A dark silver, similar to GW’s Leadbelcher, but while Leadbelcher has a nuance of oily brown, Gun Metal is slightly more neutral, cooler silver. My recommended highlight colour: Plate Mail Metal. This means you just want to run the paint into the grooves and edges of the armour and not all over the model. If you make a mistake, simply let it dry and tidy up with some Dawnstone. When I paint bronze, I actually like to work off of a very dark green basecoat--metal that's in shadow won't reflect, so there's no need to use a metallic paint--and then paint on a thin layer of a dark bronze, with a few drybrush coats of other metallics (like Screaming Bell) afterwards. A tiny drop of silver, touched by a drybrush and then almost entirely wiped off with a paper towel, works extremely well on the edges, as long as you do it very lightly.Drybrushing is great for both flat, edgless metal like the bell and also dark bronze.

im fairly new to painting and just starting my stormcast army. I want the main color to be a dark bronzey gold with deep purple secondary color and im not sure where to go next. My first army was skaven and I was able to experiment a lot more because it was more okay if their colors didnt quite match as theyre just dirty skaven scavengers and less uniformity is a bit better. So I've learned a lot on basic techniques earthtones but going to metals is totally different and I don't want to experiment so much and have 5 or 6 before I figure it out that look different and out of place. Using the edge of your paintbrush apply an edge highlight of Administratum Grey around all the armour panels. Highlight the edges of the blue areas with Lothern Blue. I glazed on a thin highlight onto the shoulders and shield as well. It helps to paint your heads separately no matter what you do, but this is especially important for your skin, because you don’t want to get flesh tones on your nice finished armor color. For the flesh tones, I wanted something a bit greyer and more inhuman than your standard Cadian Fleshtone. I go into more detail in the HTPE: Human Skin article, but for Caracalla, the skin is VGA Dwarf Skin mixed with a mid/slightly dark grey. To highlight, I mixed in more of the dwarf skin, though the entire color range I used has a good proportion of grey in it. Instead of a flesh wash, I used diluted nuln oil to wash the skin.Wash the gold with Gloss Reikland Fleshshade. Necro Gold is a somewhat greenish gold, and the red tones in the fleshshade warm up the colors while retaining the darker tone. Start the silver areas by painting any of the “machinery” with Vallejo Metal Color Magnesium, and any gun barrels or the metal areas on the lances with Iron Hands Steel. Apply a dot of White to the top-left of the jewel (the part painted with Incubi Darkness). This should be a literal dot. Don’t worry if you mess up: Re-paint the area with Incubi Darkness and try again! When I took on Custodes I was happy that the person who I painted them for wanted something other than the classic gold. As much as I love a really nice rich gold colour, I find it pretty overwhelming on the Custodes models. Instead, I went for a striking red-dominated scheme, with darker bronze metallics.



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