A recent post on another forum advocated using Tamiya X-20 as a solvent for decals. I have yet to try it, but I will. I have a Hasegawa project with decals that just won't settle down with Microsol. First, of course, I'll try it on a "crash test dummy" with same clear coat and scrap decals. As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out!

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SKY RC e680 AC/DC 80W Charger The SkyRC e680 Universal Charger is easy to use and at the same time offers a variety of features. All popular battery types such...Like Don S said, decal setting solution and decal softening solution are two different things. I use setting solution (Microsol product with a blue label) under the decal to prevent silvering, and softening solution (the Microsol product with the red label) on the top to soften the decal so it will conform to the surface. Some decals will not soften using the Microsol?, even after applying heat from a hair dryer. My last resort in that case is using denatured alcohol on the decal with the hair dryer. DO NOT get the alcohol on a painted surface or it will eat it up. For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Once the decal is in place, carefully warm the area with the hairdryer to make the decal soft so that you can push out any creases or bubbles that may have appeared. The latest discussion I could find on this was three years old so I decided rather than replying to it I would start a new topic.

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Once you have applied all your decals, and if you have done it correctly, they should now have the appearance of being painted on. From here, you can either leave the model with a gloss finish, or apply some weathering techniques. Maybe I should have explained a bit more. The primary reason for decal setting solution is to decrease the surface tension of the water. If the water does not fully wet the paint, air bubbles will be trapped between the decal and the paint, and the glue will not adhere as well. Some folks ad a tiny drop of detergent to improve wetting, others use both a drop of detergent and setting solutions. Also, use soft water if you can. Essentially the dreaded silvering, where the decal carrier film becomes visible, is caused by microscopic air bubbles under the decal. There is a much higher likelihood of this occurring on a rough, matt, surface than on a smoother gloss one. In the threads I could find on this topic the question of is solvent white vinegar or not came up several times. Now when I smell solvent I don't smell vinegar at all. I DO smell vinegar when I open an old jar of Testors Decal Set, which is used to clean and wet the model surface in preparation for the decal. When I smell both Micro Sol and the Daco product I get a mild Acetone smell. We avoid CO2 emissions wherever we can! Our remaining carbon footprint is compensated through eco-social projects.While this is often enough to keep the decal in place, if you feel it necessary you can use the second paint brush to apply the second decal solution on top of the decal. This will set it firmly.