On UD forks the fork stanchion itself has the aluminium wheel thingy (technical term) at the bottom ... so you cannot just slip over a full seal or pipe. Make sure that it is slightly less than half of one side (obviously) so that you can easily put it around the fork leg. But, there is no need. Follow these simple instructions and its as easy as changing an oil filter ! If I can do it, then anyone can! Make sure the fork is pulled apart ¾ of the way, and wrap the lower fork with the paper, and tape in place. Our experience is that the syringes with this product don't last forever with the interaction with suspension fluid and we would advise you to clean it out thoroughly after use. The syringe can be exchanged for a vacuum brake bleeding tool. The syringes on the professional version last much longer, so if you are stripping a lot of forks it is a better buy.

I have made a small video showing the 'hard bit' ... driving the new fork seal into place ... which shows how easy it is using home made tools.As you will see in the video – the total time spent actually driving the seal into place is no more than 2 minutes. (Studying the video again and it is actually under 1min 30 seconds per seal) Loosen top yoke pinch bolts – Keeping the lower yoke bolts done up – This allows you to easily undo the top cap on the forks.

I am sure I am missing something really obvious here and that you will point it out and I will go "doh" ... so let the "silky is a muppet" comments begin Remove forks from yokes and loosen the top cap on the forks – Do not actually remove the top cap at this point. It did take a proper tug (oooer missus) ... thats why I mentiond to "not be afraid to give it some abuse" (or words to that effect). Although I did this on a set of Kayaba UD Forks from a Yamaha WR400 ... I figure the basic principles will work on any fork. However, in the age of big-box hardware stores, there are definitely opportunities to make your own specialty tool and save yourself some major cash.

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It will feel as if it is catching on something and is unnerving at first – But this is simply the internal bushes/washer hitting the fork seal. The seal is ‘pressure fitted’ and you are meant to use the correct seal driver or take it to a bike shop. Rather than cutting it in half, in the past I’ve just ground down the outside and inside. The outside is fairly easy with a bench grinder – just push it against the grinder wheel enough that the seal spins fairly slowly with the grinder wheel still spinning fast. Then use a die grinder on the inside while clamped.