You haven't yet told us what you intend to do about the scored cylinder liner yet, think that could be a bigger problem to solve, have you found oversize pistons and rings and a full gasket set? Aftermarket heads are allegedly 100US. Normally this would be unbelievable, but there was a Charade clone big in China, so maybe just possible. Unfortunately the engine number is on the head, probably precluding a swap in Taiwan. In my hands these (cheapo hardware store) soldering irons give insufficient heat for reliable soldering, so I repeated the tests with a 100W (cheapo hardware store) soldering iron which was easier to arrange (and probably also gave more consistent, though not necessarily greater, heating). Can't believe there isn't a local machine shop that couldn't fit a helicoil for you, it really is the proper way to do it tbh.......

Long time ago I had a clutch slave cylinder fail on my 1800 Marina. While I was kangarooing home without a clutch I broke a piston ring, which scored the bore and ring land and put quite a lot of dents on the piston crown (which fortunately was partly protected by deposits from leaded petrol) Re the scored cylinder {which I dont think is quite accurate. "pitted" would be closer) I'm probably not going to do anything. The joints are then brush cleaned to remove excess dust and depending on conditions careful washing out with a hose may be appropriate; however, this would preferably be done at least the day before the application of mortar. The mortar should be made using sand appropriate to the masonry being worked on. A 50/50 sand such as CLS30 (50/50 coarse and fine sand – supplied by Cornish Lime) is the most popular for this type of work; while CLS35 (a fine clean washed plastering sand) has been used to good effect on numerous projects, where a coarse sand wasn’t appropriate to the masonry. View our range of coarse and fine sands. Bag rubbing is a simple technique where mortar is applied over masonry in such a way that its neither pointing or rendering, yet offers a sacrificial and protective coating to a wall, without having to extinguish its underlying character. PreparationA naked flame (from a candle or cigarette lighter) was found to blow around and give erratic temperature readings so was not used in the tests Superior heat resistance of JB Weld over Bondite is thus uncomfirmed ATPIT, (would require higher temperatures) but Bondite is a “fast” epoxy (4 mins) so gives insufficient working time and is probably weaker. This seems to be the norm for readily available epoxies. Dilute the solution first. This has various benefits including reducing the risk of damage, making the product go further, and making it safer to handle. (Use the concentrated solution once you’ve tested various levels of dilution.) Cut and rubbed work largely from the 15th Century – late Mediaeval Period – gauged work largely from the second half of the 17th Century

It wasnt using a lot of oil or noticably down on compression before this unfortunate series of events, so unless the damage is very recent, which I have no particular reason to believe, it wasnt apparently having much functional impact.JB Weld test pieces used previously (and therefore high temp cured) were compared with Bondite epoxy, Legislative issues: Health and Safety is an unavoidable but significant cost. Conservation work generally falls within the construction industry and therefore carries responsibilities under current health and safety legislation; these are outlined principally under the CDM (Construction Design Management) Regulations.

Knowledge of various types and classes of building limes, different types of aggregates, natural pozzolana and artificial pozzolans, natural pigments from ochres and vegetable sources Small business issues: Firms cannot access sufficient financial support to fund the training of apprentices and up-skilling mature artisans. There will be heritage building professionals carrying out this work but numbers and levels of skills are unclear. Re-positioning Craft Education and Training to Re-connect Artisans to Designers, The Journal of The Association of Preservation Technology, USA, (2012) Re it being "the prop[er way to do it", aside from, tbh, not giving a tinkers damn about the "proper" way to do anything, I'd say it was analagous to doing a dental implant without trying a filling first. Would seem rather improper behaviour in a dentist.There may well be machine shops that would do an insert, but I dont know them, and might not trust them if I did. Certainly DIYing it seems to have many screwup possibilities, notably the free hand drilling.