Mephiston was not always known by his more famous name – in his former life he was Calistarius, a simple Librarian of the Blood Angels (as much as a wizard space Renaissance vampire can be described as ‘simple,’ anyway). In this form he is best known as the Librarian who accompanied the Blood Angels’ assault on the Space Hulk Sin of Damnation. Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html It’s crucial to think about how metallic hues like Brass and Copper will affect the other hues in the painting while using these hues. In this instance, the copper tones will harmonize with the green hues and balance them, while the brass tones will be employed as highlights to give the painting depth. For stripes on white armor, I treat it similarly to the orange from before. I apply VMC Burnt Red, but instead of washing it, I highlight straight with Evil Suns Scarlet, then chip with Ulthuan Grey and White. Optional: After varnishing the model, you can apply a gloss highlight of ‘Ardcoat to give the jewels some shine.

And similarly, when I did my Abaddon the Despoiler I used yellow hues on the cape and base from the flame. For those I used Flash Gitz Yellow and Iyanden Yellow for the blending. Right Hand: Mephiston’s right hand (the one without the gun) may require some bending or manipulation during assembly to ensure it lines up closer to his mouth. Try playing with it before gluing in place permanently. These are the paint’s that I personally consider essential to cover most needs when it comes to painting. If I could only ever have the below paints I’d still be a happy nerd. Notice the brighter bits have a slightly lighter tint now (most clear on the arm and edge of plasma coil in this picture) Stage 5 / Final Stage – Minute 15-20 Ulthuan Grey – Air paint is a great choice for painting a variety of armies in the Warhammer 40K universe, particularly those from the Xeno factions. The cool grey color is perfect for representing the armor of these armies as well as their machinery and tanks. I recommend using this paint on the following three armies:Apply some white paint to the centre of the brightest reflected areas e.g. uppermost raised creases in the cloth a line parallel to the arrow etc.. Step 4 / Final Stage Finally , is there a decent Yoot Choob tutorial that covers this? I feel that with this internet source that’s where these paint guides should live as there are some terrific film clips out there Then, All areas that will be white get gone over again with VMA Light Grey. Almost everything except the recesses gets covered in the white areas, but I don’t apply it perfectly evenly, leaving the coat slightly patchy on the undersides of panels and areas that will be in shadow.The areas that will be grey, such as the soft portions of the torso armor, boots, and gun casing are given an edge highlight in Light Gray during this step. Some of the colors are different though... Ulthuan Grey is actually one of the examples where the old conversion was not very good - it had Ghost Grey, the new conversion from Vallejo has Glacier Grey instead. The secret to painting faces is watered-down, thin layers (mine were a bit chunky here). Go lightly when spraying primer so you don’t obscure detail. If you don’t get perfect coverage, that’s okay:

Genestealer Purple– Purple: This paint is perfect for adding a depth and dimension to the colour scheme. The cool-toned purple will complement the cool-toned grey of the Ulthuan Grey – Air paint, creating a harmonious colour combo. Highlight with Evil Suns Scarlet. This can be a fairly transparent paint when thinned down, so I do two thin layers, one more of a general highlight and the other focusing on the tops of folds and the edges of the cloth.Note that Aethermatic Blue and Baharroth Blue work extremely well for this. Other colors – especially reds – are much stronger and using Blood Angels red may give you too much tint. Consider looking at shades/washes or thinning your contrast paints before you use them in this step if you’re working with reds. Try some different stuff generally, though. Glazes also work very well for this. Step 3: Highlights Also these guides using colours from a single paint range using that ranges techniques, base coat upwards etc only speak for those invested in that paint range.

Next up I painted some of the Aethermatic Blue on parts of the model that are close to the weapons to give a reflected light effect. On the faces and cloth only apply small amounts, whereas on the metal areas you can go overboard and add a couple layers. Step 3 Tan and grey hard plastic figures: 6 mounted battalia commanders, 6 ensigns, 6 mounted cornets, 14 combined pike & shot regiments (80 soldiers each), 36 commanded shotte, 60 cavalry, 12 cuirassiers, 18 mounted dragoons, 30 dismounted dragoons, 6 Saker cannon and 6 Falconet light guns Necrons: This army is composed of technologically advanced soldiers who wear distinctive and heavy armor, as well as advanced machinery. Ulthuan Grey can be used as a base coat or a highlight color on the armor, weapons and machinery, it’s a perfect color to create a sense of ancient and weathered look, that reflects the Necrons. The wings were further highlighted with Ulthuan Grey (leave some of the previous highlight showing at the base of each feather). Add a little Warboss Green to the Waaagh Flesh and layer up, leaving the darker color in the recessesWet palettes are one of the biggest game changers to how you’ll paint your minis. If you’re not using one. Get one immediately! You can make one yourself, but I recommend this one from Red Grass games. Why use a Wet Palette? In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint, well, everything. We look at the different factions of various games, their heraldry, and different techniques for painting them from different artists. Space Wolves: This army is composed of soldiers with heavy armor and a variety of weapons, and often have a grisly and rugged look. Ulthuan Grey can be used as a base coat for the armor or as a highlight color to create a sense of grittiness and ruggedness that reflects the Space Wolves’ feral nature. Mix a touch of Mournfang Brown into Ushabti Bone and paint over the whole areas leaving the previous layer showing though the overlapping parchment joins.