Despite it being a crummy model I’m pretty happy with the overall result. it’s not too bad a paint scheme to do a full army of. http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo With cream and bone, there is quite a lot of choice. We have a warm grey triad, which I really like, as Ivory Tusk is the proper midtone that Citadel’s Pallid Wych Flesh and Rakarth Flesh are missing. The bone triad is a bit dark, and Skeleton Legion and Dragon Fang are a bit too close for my taste. At least they are not as yellowish as Citadel’s bones. We also have some khakis, which all cover amazingly, but they’re also all quite close. Mmh. These two are not my most favourite triads in the range, but serviceable with some mixing.

Emma: Spooky but soft at the same time, Soulblight Grey shades with a light grey tone, perfect for the ghoulish skin and dirty bones of Grand Alliance Death models. I like using it over Screaming Skull for that weathered Deathrattle Skeleton bone, then drybrushing up from there. Emma: Tyran Blue is a lovely bright blue shade that looks great over light blues, and also creates some esoteric colour combinations when applied over silver and gold. Iron Hands Steel with a coat of Tyran Blue and a Stormhost Silver highlight gives you lovely magical steel, for instance.First up, I use a lot of paint mixes, but they’re to get specific shades in particular ratios, and I don’t do much blending. Second, I use a lot of Citadel shade paints and also glazes on my skin work. Thirdly, I have recipes for you to follow, because I’m a lazy arse who mostly paints skin the same way each time. Add a little Ulthuan Grey to the Celestra Grey and layer up, leaving the darker color in the recesses If you’re keeping things grounded, a general rule of thumb is to think that, if you removed all of the colors but your accent color and the brown in the mix, would the color still read as brown? This means you can mix in a tiny bit with your lighter skin tones, while as you get darker (and thus have more brown), you can get away with adding a lot more color into the mix. For example, I love the tone I get mixing purple into brown to almost reach a plum color, while if you put any noticeable hint of purple into a very pale skin tone, it would look quite odd. Add a little Warboss Green to the Waaagh Flesh and layer up, leaving the darker color in the recesses

Thin down some Mournfang Brown aggressively, then put it on the cloaks everywhere but the recesses. It should be so thin that it goes on sort of transparent – you’re really just using this to smooth out the Contrast effect so it looks niceThe angriest of the new Shade paints isn’t just for the followers of Khorne – but it does work particularly well on them. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference,

Glaze 4:1 Reikland Fleshshade:Mephiston Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Now, I hope I’ve armed you with a flexible technique and the knowledge that you can do a great deal when it comes to skin with a small selection of paints, many of which you probably already own, in not too much time. Now, I leave you in the very capable hands of Lupe for something completely different. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf Dark Aged Skin (Octren’s exposed hands and chin; I’ll write out the full details for how I’d paint a whole face here in case you’re interested) Nightmare Before Christmas is a classic kid’s film where the main character is a skeleton who kidnaps Santa Claus and then scares the shit out of children all over the world.Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade have been used by Warhammer hobbyists for years to dirty up models. Now, Mortarion Grime gives you yet another way to add filth to your recesses and stand out on the battlefield. I do not own an airbrush, so all of these models are painted with spray on primers and then with a brush. Also, all of the paints I use here are GW paints (as those are the only ones sold in my area), and contrast paints play a pretty big role in this scheme. Finally, basing is something I wanted to spend time on with these models, as I feel it is a great way to add some extra color and character to each of these, while also keeping things uniform. The burgundy triad also has great coverage, the colours are rather muted though. The purple triad boasts great opacity as well, and I especially like Sorcerer’s Cloak, which is a much better covering alternative to Genestealer Purple. Everyone loves Putrid Blightkings – they hit hard, they look great and they’re a staple of any Nurgle army in Warhammer Age of Sigmar. But with so much detail, they must be hard to paint, right? Wrong – getting great results on your Putrid Blightkings is much simpler than you might think! Just follow the latest invaluable guide from all-round Warhammer mastermind Tyler: Well well, once again you come to me to ask for advice on how to paint Drukhari? Oh don’t worry, prospective and current Archon’s of the Dark City, I will guide you. I hope you have your most hammy evil monologues at the ready and a glass of wine to swirl menacingly, you’ll need it.

We’ll start with Light skin because it’s easiest, and because we’re basically using the same method for all the recipes . Once you’ve got this one down, you can do the others. The Tyranids are a race of highly-evolved alien creatures that are capable of adapting to almost any environment and situation. Rakarth Flesh would be a good choice for painting Tyranid models, as it would help to create a wide range of different skin tones and textures, depending on the specific subspecies of Tyranid being modelled. Sybarite Green where it makes sense on the cloth – this is a bit of an art, but you want to put some lines to give it some definition. You can push these further with Skarsnik Green if you wantSpot detail on aprons with Blood for the Blood God – get a beat up brush, and just sort of smear it around This dude is probably the most straightforward of the bunch; he’s basically all robes, wood, and bone, which you should get used to painting with this set. The purple was straight up just Naggaroth, as mixing in yellow/white came later in the layering stage. Once the red was done I gave every model several thin coats of AK Interactive Gloss Varnish. This makes the red look much nicer and also makes the next step a lot easier!