After solvent washing the panel fronts any remaining waxy film is removed, allowing inspection of the underlying surface. Assessment of the product performance is then easy. https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/icon/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-5-litres-3.jpg The 3 year UK change isn't just for image/status, the massive shift to Diesel has in recent years caused huge expense to many owners after warranty (not long after for some) due to poor design, possibly combined with use the designs can't cope with...the howler in all this is that somehow the buyers are being at least partly blamed (by other buyers as well hows that for successful propaganda) for not using the vehicles ''correctly''...when it's poor designs and implimentation of unrealistic emission targets that is the problem, not helped by buyers falling for the frankly idiotic long life service regimes. Also when is best to apply this? I'll probably end up drilling holes here and there to get access to different area's for a good coating and though to do it before the body gets painted (and probably before the inside and engine bay are also painted). https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/large/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-5-litres-3.jpg

Our Deox range of rust removers are capable of removing heavy rust, yet remain safe to use with no danger to skin or the environment. They are biodegradable and do not liberate corrosive fumes. Available in both concentrated powder Deox-C, and gel form Deox-GEL. The product is made without any water displacing solvent, this is intentional so that early water resistance is made on exterior surfaces. However if there is any moisture left - (this time of year with atmospheric water and colder panels water can remain on surfaces for hours) the product cannot adhere properly and will form a wax skin effectively floating over the moisture. Any traces of surfactant left from Surfex would've allowed the water to become very lubricious too so the film would sort of move. Dynax-S50 is designed to protect steel surfaces in extreme conditions. It’s well known that vehicle cavities are subject to a wide-range of corrosive environments, from salt spray to high humidity, heat, fresh water and freezing. The cavity wax chosen must cope with all these variables and continue to provide the necessary protection – maintaining the structural integrity, safety, and value of the vehicle. It’s common for manufacturers of cavity waxes to quote salt-spray results in hours for their cavity waxes and while the salt-spray test is severe it’s been shown that waxes with very good salt-spray performance can rapidly deteriorate when the environment changes, for example after a period of constant salt-spray they swell become bloated and detach from the surface in an atmosphere of high humidity alone. Dynax-S50 has been proven to provide outstanding salt-spray protection and continuing protection in changing conditions with no swelling or detachment whatsoever. You’ll see below how Dynax-S50 compared with two extremely well known cavity waxes in constant salt spray trials. When I bought the fabia estate to add to our fleet, it was still summer. I decided to strip off the alloy wheels to paint the rear drums, and then in a fit of OCD decided to go a lot further. As the suspension was still factory fresh, I could see the welds were poorly painted and generally everything very thinly coated. The exhaust rear box was already rust stained. As I know from experience, all vag cars rapidly end up with shabby rusty suspension and brake work, not covered under warranty. https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/large/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-1-litre-1.jpgNext day, was the turn of the silicone spray, obviously taking care to avoid discs or places that could contaminate discs from run off etc. I also sprayed the insides of the alloys, the plastic liners, and various underbody bits including bolt heads etc. ( but NOT wheel bolts). Also plastic front grillwork and engine compartment plastic bits. Wiping to polish and remove excess, you soon feel how slippy the surfaces becomes We've returned to Japanese cars, after many years running mainly Merc W124's only one of which we still have, it's been a pleasure to work on cars designed to last and be worked on and fixed in the field again quite apart from the engineering of the marques involved. Unlike traditional bitumen underseals Dynax-UB will not peel. Peeling underbody coatings trap water against the steel surface, accelerating corrosion. My question is, how much of it do I need? I'm not sure where all I'll be using it but definetely will be on the cills (which required welding), chassis legs, front cross member and probably the subframes as well. Possibly end up using it in all the various other cavities through out the rest of the shell also. No salt on the roads here in the West. We never see any snow or ice. It might go down to about 0'C overnight in mid winter. That is the worst we get. Not much rain either where I am.

https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/medium/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-5-litres-1.jpg https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/medium/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-5-litres-2.jpg Dynax-S50 has been proven to substantially outperform competitive material in salt-spray trials under conditions of ASTM B117. As you can see from the salt-spray test demonstration, Dynax-S50 clearly outperforms other highly rated cavity waxes. Infact, after much testing Dynax-S50 was presented with the best cavity wax accolade from University of Hertfordshire – School of Engineering and Technology.The graphic below shows Dynax-S500 treated on half a metal panel after 2084 hours in the salt spray chamber. We competed with six other rated cavity waxes in this extensive test, including brands such as Robuster, Hammerite and Mike Sanders. For non-aerosol dispensed Dynax-S50, warming the container (loosen cap first) by standing in a hot water bath will further reduce viscosity and is beneficial where deep crevice protection is required. Never heat aerosol dispensed product. Ensure that cavities are left unclosed for a period of 48 hours to allow the escape of carrier materials before bunging or stopping.https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/medium/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-5-litres-4.jpg https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/medium/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-dynax-ub-non-aerosol-5-litres-7.jpg If i was ten years younger i'd invest in a scissor lift for all my cars work, but somehow i can't see me doing these jobs in another ten years.

It is recommended to place the container in a room at around 15 degrees C for 24 hours prior to use, particularly when using low pressure equipment for spray application. dynax-UB is able to arrest existing corrosion and to provide long-term protection to pre-corroded and corrosion-free surfaces.We run older cars, we buy as well looked after as possible when the right car comes along, then because of the UK's salt fetish some serious rustproofing gets done then we run them as long as possible. On a really hot day when i've got nothing to do i might just shove another couple of cans of cavity wax through the chassis, just in case. Thanks Expat, concur with your outlook, all three of our cars are the oldest hereabouts apart from a lovely Toyota Starlet just round the corner...which i'll buy should i find the lady wants to sell.