Identical to the Bullgryn above, but with more grey(this one may have been VMA Panzer Dark Grey instead, but the exact colors matter fairly little.) Diluted Nuln Oil wash in recesses. Drukhari tend to be an “antagonist faction” in 40k fiction; they certainly make good villains, after all – but have had the opportunity to take center stage a few times. Lay down a thin layer of Vallejo Model Air Light Gull Gray on the bone bits – you want this to be thin and ever so slightly inconsistent to give the effect of weathered and bleached bone Jain Zar by Gav Thorpe also features the Drukhari in significant fashion and gives them some real show-stealing scenes. Paint some pink over the plasma coils, paint some on the closest areas to the glow too. Add a load of water to it and apply it thinly over the closest parts to the coil, it should dry almost transparent.

Now add a little dot of White (Scar, or your choice of flat white) and keep going in the same way, until you’re at 1:1 with your starting Cadian:Ushbati mix and your white (that’s 1:1:2 overall). You’re getting just teeny tiny details at this point. So, in the last section I went over the basics of mixing a skin tone. Four colors. Simple, right? Now I’m going to tell you how to break them. Just using four colors, and their derivative, ‘Flesh Tone’, will not get you the full range of human skin colors. Different skin has different hues and saturations. People are varied. Orks can have green skin and bleed red because the green pigment in their skin would absorb the red, leaving none to reflect off the underlying vasculature. Next I start hitting the pustules with Averland Sunset. I want these to be bright on the final model but I’m gonna cover them with Nurgle’s Rot, which will tint them green so I need them to be bright yellow. I add a dot of Flash Gitz Yellow to them as well.Glaze 4:1 Reikland Fleshshade:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight We highlight this with Evil Sunz Scarlet. You don’t need to blend in this highlight that much, as the shading with smoothen it.

Sybarite Green where it makes sense on the cloth – this is a bit of an art, but you want to put some lines to give it some definition. You can push these further with Skarsnik Green if you want More washes. I want to retain a pale look, so I washed the flesh bits with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, then I did a couple thin coats of Druchii Violet around the eyes and a ring of Nuln Oil to give the eyes a smoky, shadowy look on her face. With something like zombies, you can push the envelope very far. You can use pretty much any color. Green, Purple, Blue. Any color mixed with flesh tone, and then highlighting up with increasing quantities of a light flesh tone added will look great on a zombie. Just don’t push them too far or they will just read as whatever color you tinted with instead of as oddly colored flesh.The various components of these recipes can be mixed and matched to adjust the final tones. As long as you swap tones within the same general categories, you can develop many interesting variations. If broad swathes of skin are being painted on a figure, applying a degree of variation to the tones (by swapping the components around) in the skin will give the skin a more realistic appearance.. Examples of This (1) The gold is the same as I’ve used in countless of these HTPEs, Rhinox Hide > Mournfang Brown > XV-88 > Balor Brown > Zamesi Desert > Dorn Yellow Those two talk a lot about all kinds of theory and blending and so on. But I’ll level with you: I didn’t learn to paint skin in art classes, I learned to paint skin on minis, so my approach is a little different. This last highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet is critical, as it will make the red stand out and really contrast the deepest areas that are dark red. Base

Left: VMC Flat Earth mixed with VMA Medium Olive, highlighting to pure Flat Earth. Watered down Nuln Oil to emphasize scars and brand. You achieve a bigger contrast by going from a darker red to a lighter red than by using only vibrant reds. For the sword I go with a bone look – Rakarth flesh washed with Agrax – and I paint the tubing Moot Green. So, I’ve talked about a lot of theory and paint mixing. I don’t typically mix up my own flesh tones in painting. Hell, I’m not as good a painter, nor do I spend as much time on individual models as my co-authors. If you’re looking for display models or to win painting awards, go listen to them. If you’re looking for a flexible technique that will do some pretty nice skin for high tabletop level models, then I may have something useful to impart.

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Soon the area around the cut will become inflamed. A simple glaze of Carroburg Crimson around the cut will bring this out nicely.