I can understand Tim's frustration but if we start boycotting every maker of traditional photo supplies just because they've discontinued a favorite product or changed it without our permission we won't be buying from any of 'em. We'll be coating glass plates and arguing about who makes the best glass and debating the merits of free range vs. captive hens for making albumen prints.

If you buy your films on the Internet, now that the film is still new, you should ask the dealer beforehand if it is the old or new film. A version for medium format cameras of the two films is currently not planned. Los Angeles with Anna - Part I - Pairing the Leica M10 with the Leica 28mm f/1.4 Summilux + APO 50mm f/2 SummicronFor sure, Tri-X tends to be higher contrast–though for those of us who shoot film often you’ll know that Tri-X isn’t as contrasty as Delta 400. While I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for street photography, it’s a great film for portraiture.

Too Big to Fail - the Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L - Plus the Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L + Leica 50mm f/1.2 Noctilux-M When it comes to price, if you live in US and it’s still 2017 you could probably just trust my numbers. If you don’t, what you’ll want to do is figure out the price per frame, as some of these films come in 24 frames in a roll and others 36. Here are the prices per frame in the US as of the time of me filming this video: This film is fun; and for some photographers that like lower contrast in their scenes it may even become their favorite film. It’s super affordable, fun to experiment with, and in the right situations can help you to create really cool photos. But for me, I’m a bigger fan of Ilford Delta 400. Why? I digg contrast; lots of it. More contrast can sometimes fool the eye into thinking an image is sharper than it is; but with this film you don’t need to do that. Agfa APX 400 is plenty sharp, has tight grain and I’d probably use it the most for portrait and studio stuff.

Specification

But assuming you’re ok with my own set of criteria, what you’re going to want to do first is to go through each of these criteria and rate how important each one is to you personally on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being not important at all and 5 being extremely important. In most cases you will get better results if you develop the film yourself and can choose the right developer etc., but I assume that you can also get good results in an external lab. Once you’ve got a copy that you can edit, the first step is to rate your priorities when it comes to film in this second row here. Now keep in mind, I built this for myself and factors I consider when evaluating these films. You may have your own criteria and, as such, you may need to do some refactoring of this spreadsheet to get it to reflect this. But showing you to change the business rules on this spreadsheet is beyond the scope of this tutorial, so you’re on your own if you choose to go that route. It’s always a great feeling when you pull the film out of the developing can and you see your pictures or what’s on the film. That’s something else again than when you give your films to the lab. Of the big three players in the U.S. market b&w film, paper and chemistry makers - Kodak, Ilford and Agfa - which one *hasn't* discontinued or altered a favorite product in the last decade?