A bike stem is not inserted into the steerer but slides onto the steerer. Tightening the stem bolts secures the stem to the steerer. Unthread and remove threaded race. Hold fork to prevent it falling to the ground. Note orientation of bearing retainer (if any). The bike is a Christmas present and so will not see any use for about 5 weeks as we are in November now. A messy pile of components fit under the headset umbrella. Beginning from the base, there’s the crown race. This is a thin ring that slides onto the fork’s steerer tube and sits against the fork crown, allowing a specific headset to interact with a fork. The lower bearing in a headset can have a different shape depending on how it’s designed, so the included crown race “pairs” these two components.

Remove sliding press plate and install cups onto guides. Guides are used to maintain cup alignment while pressing. Cup guides fit most 1-inch and 1-1/8-inch standard headset cups. Before using cup guide, insert guide into cup. If guide appears to jam or is a tight fit, DO NOT use cup guides for that particular headset cup. Do not use cup guides #530-2 if guides press on any preinstalled cup-bearing unit (ex. Chris King® headsets). For headsets not fitting #530-2 cup guides, simply press using threaded press plate and sliding press plate. Pressure on the outer rim of aluminum head cups may visually scar the cups. If not using the guides, it can help to press one cup at at time. The key to making a threaded headset work properly is by tightening the top race or preloading the bearing, noting the point where fork rotation becomes stiffer. NOTE: It can take significant pressure to pull the crown race. For certain fork and crown race combinations (especially those involving suspension forks) there is very little access for crown race removal. Some cosmetic scarring of the fork crown may occur on these forks.If play is present, repeat steps “6” and “7” above until play disappears. Adjustment is finished when there is no play in any position as the fork rotates.

Use a hammer at end of RT-1 and drive cup from head tube. Use care as cup approaches end of tube, as tool may fall to ground on last blow of the hammer.Finally, the stem spacers and stem fill up the rest of the steerer tube. The star fangled nut (SFN), installed in the steerer tube, allows the top cap and preload bolt to pull the whole system tightly together. Then, the stem bolts are tightened to keep it snug. Now, on to some tips for headset installation and removal. The fork steerer is 1 inch in diameter. Steerer length is specific to the size of the bike into which it is installed. HOW DOES A THREADED HEADSET WORK? The exception to this rule is for threaded headsets that use sealed bearings which are much less sensitive to the amount of torque applied to the top race. CAN I USE A THREADED FORK WITH A THREADLESS HEADSET?

Well, you’d need another connection with a design and printing company, get a set made. Applying the decals takes a skilled worker less than five minutes. Removing then replacing an older threaded headset—notably a caged or loose bearing model—with a more modern sealed bearing design is a great way to begin an old bike restoration. A threaded headset works with a fork that has threads running from the top down towards the fork crown for several inches. NOTE: If you are not removing bars completely, use care not to kink or damage housing when hanging bars on bike.

Headset Bearing Race Installation

Removing and installing threaded headsets requires specialist tools. Successful removal and installation depends on using them correctly.