If the switch from meat and dairy has left you with a craving for umami that can only be partly sated by mushrooms, soy and nutritional yeast, dry sherry is here to help, this breezy light classic from Sanlúcar offering salted-nut savouriness and a whiff of the sea.

Importers and supermarkets have also got better at sourcing, labelling and marketing vegan and vegetarian wines. Marks & Spencer leads the way in this respect, with 384 vegan-friendly bottles; the Co-op, long a pioneer of transparency in wine ingredients, now has 77. So it’s now possible to find these wines everywhere, making my selection of the following 20 vegan bottles much easier than it would have been even two years ago.

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The Brajkovich family is one of the founders of modern New Zealand wine, and they continue to impress with, in this case, an opulent Alsace-inspired pinot gris that mixes roses, baking spice and ripe quince with a spicy stir-fry-happy oiliness of texture. Alzar in Spanish means 'to raise'; just like the sun over the Andes mountains, soaring over the vineyards of Mendoza where the Malbec grapes grow. Regional Information Another consistent own-label dry white performer that I was delighted to discover is vegan, this is classic modern Chilean sauvignon, elderflower and peapod infused with invigorating citrus zip and nip in fruit grown in the cooling breezes of the Pacific Ocean. Although it would be a mistake to equate vegan or vegetarian with organic when it comes to wine, Aldi’s bargain tinto from near Valencia satisfies both demands with a bold-berry character, and an easy, smoked paprika-partnering succulence. From one of South Africa’s most consistent producers a typically robust but fragrant red Rhône-alike with just a hint of smoke to help smooth down such vegan or vegetarian barbecue favourites as halloumi cheese, aubergine or portobello mushrooms.

The much-abused north-eastern Italian red wine style is here presented as the wonderfully pure, fluent, light and graceful cherry-fruited delight it always should be, its bright acidity a natural partner for any tomato-based dish, from pasta to ratatouille. Things are getting better for vegan and vegetarian wine-drinkers, however. More winemakers are choosing to use mineral and plant-based fining agents, from bentonite clay and silica gel to plant casein. Walter Clappis is a believer in organic and biodynamic farming and this wine, while having all of the gutsy ripe dark fruit you’d want from Aussie shiraz, has a distinctive, moreish glossiness and savoury depths that are great with mushroom. All are longstanding traditions and, looked at in one way, remarkable testaments to human ingenuity ( who first came up with the idea of using bone marrow to clean wine?). But that’s hardly a comfort if your conversion to veganism has been scuppered by an unwitting sip of blood-fined malbec. Green and pleasant Tasmania has become one of Australia’s best places for pinot noir, and this is a wonderfully silky fruit-driven style, all plump fresh strawberry with just a touch of the grape’s trademark forest-floor; great alone or with beetroot dishes.A white blend of Champagne’s two red grapes (pinot meunier and pinot noir), this is always one of the best supermarket sparklers around, with flavours of raspberry, redcurrant and digestive biscuit in its deep, creamy but elegantly racy palate.

The name, Fleurie, of this Beaujolais district or cru suggests something prettily floral, and that’s certainly part of the attraction here, along with the regional speciality of sappy, crunchy fresh cherry-berry fruit and thirst-quenching freshness. Apostolos Thymiopoulos, one of the stars of modern Greece, has fashioned a delightful summer white from the exotically fleshy malagousia and the white juice (but not skins) of red grape xinomavro: blossom and tropical fruit salad in a juicy but fresh style for veggie Greek meze. Coming in at the cheaper end of the English sparkling spectrum, this classy Kentish blend of the classic chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier triumvirate is made by the justly well-regarded Hush Heath estate in a graceful, crisp, incisive style.