Squash grows big and can end up rampaging over your plot. They will spread vigorously. I like to plant them about 1.5 metres apart. Squash are hungry plants that grow best in enriched soil. I prepare their position by digging a planting hole and filling it with well rotted manure mixed with rich compost. It is helpful to mark the position of the plant with a cane or pole. That way, in mid summer when the plant has spread all over a plot, it is still possible to identify the plant’s centre for watering. I painted extra wood preservative on the freshly cut pieces to help prevent water penetrating into the wood.

Water butts can be helpful to reduce the work of moving water around a plot, especially if they are positioned near plants that need frequent watering. By storing water near plants, there is a shorter distance to walk carrying a heavy watering can filled with water. The water butts can be filled up by hose, or water pump, once a week or fortnightly. Fruit All types of squash are sensitive to frost and need protection before warm weather finally arrives for summer. I usually sow squash into pots in late March or April, covering the pots with transparent film to help germination, before placing on a sunny windowsill. After germination, protect the delicate heat loving plants from late spring cold and frosts by growing on in a plastic greenhouse or polytunnel, before transplanting to their final position after the last frosts. If growing without a growhouse or cold frame, my suggestion would be to sow seed in late April. Watering plants at an allotment is one of the most frequent tasks for a plot holder. If there are a choice of allotments available, choosing an allotment near a water supply can save a considerable amount of effort.

Compost

Once the ground was levelled, I positioned the wood around the plot where I wanted the no-dig beds to go. I tried to avoid walking over this area to avoid flattening the freshly dug soil. As others have said, there are better beginner books out there if you’re looking for how-to guides for core skills, but this brings a refreshing angle and doesn’t toe the usual allotment advice of doing everything from seed and building your shed from salvaged wood by hand. It’s much more practical for people who have a lot of non-gardening commitments. Summer squash can be eaten young when the skin is soft, or left to mature like winter squash (to store). If eaten young, the skin is easy to peel and the seeds are small. Summer squash comes in a range of interesting shapes and colours. The plants generally form a bush shape, with the fruit setting once the large flowers have been pollinated. Summer squash is the best option where space is limited. Winter Squash

I assembled three sides of the frame, one long length on its side, and two width pieces at either end standing vertically. The advantage of doing it this way is that it is easy to achieve right angles. I then tipped it over to secure the final side. Doing this on flat ground is much easier.Early spring often led to a plot looking overgrown, and throughout the year I found I was spending a lot of time cutting grass rather than growing. It has taken me a few years to come round to the benefit of creating no-dig beds. For years, probably around 10 years, I have kept my plot open, which has the benefit of flexibility, but has required re-digging year after year. And to be honest, as the years have gone by, I’ve found myself doing less and less digging, and using more plastic ground sheets, as a less tiring way of digging over a whole plot. Rotation also allows beds time to recover, and provides a gardener with the opportunity to add nutrients to the soil. Creating a zone for fruit can make it easier to provide protection from birds. Covering fruit with a net is often necessary to prevent wildlife enjoying a harvest at a plot holder's expense. A square or rectangular zone is easier to protect by creating a temporary or permanent fruit cage. Herbs

Forks are indispensable for breaking up the soil, and for levelling soil that has been freshly dug. It is sometimes easier to dig with a fork than a spade, as the sharp points of a fork more easily penetrate hard ground. Rake What can I say other than a superb publication from the king of gardening. Here he applies his extensive knowledge to getting the most from your allotment with such enthusiasm you can’t wait to get down your plot and start digging and planting! All bases are covered and presented in a way that the complete novice can understand, but also, for the more experienced grower, provides useful info for example if growing a particular vegetable for the first time. This book won’t disappoint , thank you Mr T. At the edges of the raised bed area, I created raised stops using a length of wood screwed to batons, and then pushed into the ground. This is to keep the wood chips from spilling out of the path. Using Weed Control Fabric Growing vegetables and fruit is not one of those academic things that you can learn from books as you really only learn from a hands on experience.I reach for my rake at seed planting time. The first step is to dig over the bed to loosen the soil, and the second step is to rake the soil to create a fine level surface. This will make it easier for seedlings to burst through after germination. Rakes are also useful for collecting weeds and other debris that may fall onto a plot. If your ground is already flat, you can create the frame and leave the digging until everything is in place. This does save work, but as before, it is worth taking your time to remove any weed roots buried in the ground.

Over the years, the initial investment will be repaid and more. Tools should last for many years, and an experienced gardener will learn to grow more with less, what grows best on their plot, ways of extending the harvest season, and how to store crops over the winter months. Lots of plants need tying up at the allotment. Twine is useful to mark seed rows after sowing and prior to germination. Wigwams made from branches or canes would not be possible without garden twine to hold them together. Tomato plants would fall over without being supported.

Hoe

Every plot needs a plan for paths to avoid walking over beds. Traditionally, an allotment has paths running down each side of a single long bed. In the plan above, this approach has been adapted with both vertical and horizontal paths to create squares for crop rotation. This allotment book will also guide you on how to build compost bins, structures like raised beds plus lots more to get an amazing looking allotment.