Pretty simple really. You get a giant green syringe and a tube of grease. Which is red (and which you can replace when it runs out): Though this latter fear was mitigated by the knowledge that the amount of power I put through the pedals is unlikely to wear down bearings made of soap.)

Grease 35 ml GX-Contact Grease Syringe | RS RS PRO Grease 35 ml GX-Contact Grease Syringe | RS

So the conventional method of lubricating stabilizers is to dip/paint the wire with the chosen lubricant and then said wire is then inserted into the stabilizer housing. As I may have mentioned in my long-term review of the Speedplays, I’ve been somewhat remiss in terms of greasy TLC (and I haven’t been maintaining my pedals yak yak yak). I’ve recently started working again after a three year hiatus (it appears that blogging, like crime, does not pay). If you’re someone that greases brake and gear cables within their housings (there seems to be some debate as to whether you’re meant to), a syringe like this will give you the best chance of getting the lube at least in the general vicinity of the opening of the outer sheath. You Mentioned Lubing Speedplay Cleats? I rode the remainder of the ride in that state of heightened tension where you’re conscious of the ludicrous noise that is piercing through the otherwise peaceful June countryside evening and the potential damage that each pedal stroke might be making.This particular evening I’d made a particular effort, once home, to prise myself immediately into my Lycra armour and get in an hour-long ride. It’s easy to make a good product. To have a good product that people support and deliver it in a way that makes people want to give you money is hard. As we also know, Speedplays require a little more maintenance upkeep than other pedals. They contain bearings within the pedal, which need replacement grease every 2000 miles.

RS PRO Grease 20 ml SGB Syringe | RS - RS Components

This post is not going to interest everyone, but if you have a strong desire to make precision insertions of oil into certain parts of your bike, then I’m about to blow your mind. The problem Ive always had with that is that its a relatively messy method with allot of lubricant getting onto the housing of the stabilizer, a non issue if a softer lube like 205g0 is used but problems arise when a harder lube such as a dielectric grease or similar is used. A harder lube has a chance of seeping between the housing and the slider of the stabilizer which will make the function of the stabililzed key very sluggish. Another problem is getting the amount of lubricant consistant on the wire when dipping into the lubricant and then making sure most of is goes into the stabiliser slider. My pleasure at succeeding at getting out of the house was soon interrupted by a creaking squeaking sound. This photo might be something of an historical re-enactment… I was a bit too focused on greasing rather than photo-ing the first time round).

And when applications require high-speed dispensing or dispensing over uneven surfaces, EFD recommends jet valvesfor the greatest accuracy, within tight deposit tolerances.