It is hard to find a good white paint that will cover a surface evenly and completely without applying a lot of layers. White Scar is a one of two white paint colors from Citadel, and is the purest white you’ll find in any model paint brand. Reaper Master Series paint has a pure white paint color that is comparable. If I had to compare White Scar to other whites, then I’d say that for most white painting needs, you can’t get anything with better coverage and utility. Well, you can, but other white paints tend to be chalky and clumpy. Citadel White Scar is a smooth, gel like blend that you can use straight from the pot thinned with water, or use it to tint other colors. It mixes well with any acrylic paints, and further adds opaque qualities to those colors. Mechanicus Standard Grey I started by painting the flesh with Games Workshop The Fang. I then wash the model using two different shades: The top half of the model was washed with Drakenhof Nightshade and the bottom was washed with Druchii Violet to give it more of a purple hue. The goal here is to make sure the undersides are the parts being highlighted, which is kind of the reverse from how you’d normally do it. Just think about where the light is coming from as you do this. I also did a blend of Evil Sunz Scarlet and Fire Dragon bright into the gold trim surrounding the head. So for the final highlight I’m using the new Corax White which is likewise phenomenal as a layer paint over Celestra. It works really well as a base, but I still think Celestra has it beat. However its a thousand times better than White Scar or Ceramite White which for my money are not very good paints at all. Normally I’d go with Ulthuan Grey but again its a very sharp jump in brightness and I found the softer hue of Corax White just looks better on the more subtle gradient of Celestra and Grey Seer. This extends to the models as well, where I’ll drybrush the lower parts of models with Celestra Grey as well to both blend them with the base in a natural way and also make them feel like a part of the environment.

I also basecoated the hair, which varied from man to man. I mostly used Scale75 Mars Orange, Scale75 Brown Leather, Vallejo Brown Leather and Citadel Steel Legion Drab. Armageddon Dust is a texture paint you apply to create a minimalist look for your bases. It is a simple paste material you slather onto your base that dries into an sandy, dusty surface. You can dry brush the surface to pull up details, using paints like Screaming Skull or other bone colors. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494 Personally I didn’t add grass tufts just to underscore the bleakness of the battlefield. But you certainly could add some here and there for variance.

Final Thoughts

Once the Agrax Earthshade wash dries, I highlight the bones and beak with Rakarth Flesh again, and then do some edge highlighting with Reaper Polished Bone to get an even lighter shade. I edge highlight both the weapons and the scale mail with Ironbreaker or Rune Fang Steel, whichever happens to be closer to me when I’m looking for paints.I also dot the eye with Reaper Pure White. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Finishing Touches Of all the green paints in the Citadel Paint line, Waaaagh! Flesh is the green paint color that made me take a second look. It’s not really a bright green or a dark green, but somewhere in the middle. Waaaagh! Flesh is a base formulated paint designed for easy 1-2 layer coverage and smooths out evenly when dry. It works great as a main color paint for green skin tones, e.g., orcs and goblins, or as a highlight for darker greens and even browns when mixed properly with warmer color hues.

Finally, using Citadel Averland Sunset, paint in a fine central line down the columns and rows that have green squares in. This done, you’ll find the effect suddenly jumps into focus Rakarth Flesh is another base color that provides you with many versatile applications. Start with this color as a basecoat or use it as a highlight layer paint. Solid opaque coverage can be had in 1-2 coats. A small bit of water will help it flow off your brush. I use this paint color for lighter skin tones, for painting parchment papers (e.g., purity seals, anyone?), and as a dry brush highlight color over browns and dark grays that you may often find on model bases or terrain bits. This is a lovely paint that I recommend for its many uses. Bugman’s Glow So thats it guys! Thats my approach to painting white. I hope you found it helpful and that it took some of the mystique out this reputedly difficult process. I’m very happy with how it came out and they make a great exotic addition to my Corsair themed Eldar. If you need any tips or advice feel free to ask away in the comments section below, I’m always happy to talk painting.

Light Grey

I base the whole thing in Mechanicus Standard Grey, then wash it unevenly with Agrax Earthshade. From there i heavily drybrush on Dawnstone and then lightly with Terminatus Stone. Roads are an integral part of the urban environment and great for showing scale. On some of my larger bases, particularly Chaos Knights, I add torn-up roads to both create more of an urban feel and also give the model a sense of scale. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Of course if you want to put down a larger slab of concrete you’ll have to glue it on after the fact.

At some point, you’re going to collect way more paints than you’ll ever need. I have piles of miniature paint bottles and pots that I’ve collected over the years. Hundreds. Some haven’t been opened in a long time. Air Paints – these are airbrush-ready paints that are pre thinned for use in an airbrush and should provide you with similar color matching with layer and base paints. Here is an article with a review of Citadel Air Paints alongside other airbrush-ready paints. Next comes finishing off the bottom half of the model. My bone recipe is to paint the skulls/bones with Rakarth Flesh, wash that with Agrax, then highlight with Rakarth Flesh and Reaper Polished Bone, using a mix of Agrax and Polished bone for shading and smoothing. That should get you through these ligne Voltiguers just fine, and those techniques will apply to anybody else in the regiment. And yes, I know I just painted Ultramarines again. Hey guys Cavalier here, co-host of Splintermind the Dark Eldar podcast and commission painter for Frontline Gaming. Sharing how I’ve used the new GW white paints to paint my Shining Spears.

Discussion

Layer Paints – these are conventional model acrylic paints and form the bulk of the Citadel Paint line. These paints come in a huge variety of colors, tones, and values. You will likely end up owning more of these paints than any of the other paint types. Retributor Armour is the absolute base gold metallic paint (here’s my in-depth review of this amazing gold paint). Gold metallic paint, like yellow paint, have had a bad rap for having poor coverage. They are often hard to use and frequently result in a splotchy finishes. Not Retributor Armour. This gold paint covers any well-primed surface in 1-2 coats, easily, creating a prototypical beautiful gold reflective finish. You can either use it as the primary gold metallic, or shade it with Reikland Flesh or Seraphim Sepia. Use a purple wash, and you turn this gold into a copper metallic (see a more thorough overview of working with metallic paint among others in this article). You can edge highlight this gold with a bit of Stormhost Silver, and give it a bright specular sheen. Technical/Texture Paints Nighthaunt Gloom