Set the focus ring at infinity and set the aperture setting wide open, i.e. f/2. Setting the lens to infinity will bring you into the correct range for focusing on stars, and only small refinements will be needed from here. EOSM + 135mmL lens - I took this image just for the Bokeh. It was increased further by moving even closer to the subject after taking this shot. Focus distances are printed on the focus ring (in both ft and m) and a DOF scale covering f/11 and narrower apertures is provided. SAMYANG: The tufts of hair in the cat's ear are in focus. But not the face, whiskers, eyes or nose. Take a closer look (either at this cropped portion or the original full image). Park Cameras Limited is a credit broker, not a lender and is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FRN 720279). We do not charge you for credit broking services. We will introduce you exclusively to finance products provided by Duologi.

When performing lens tests, I am frequently stepping through the available apertures to identify image quality changes. The area around the star Sadr in Cygnus; a large area filled with diffuse emission nebula. If you have an astro-modified DSLR, this is a great region to capture in late summer or early autumn. Note that there is one exception to the half stop aperture settings – the half stop between f/16 and f/22 is not available. While some versions of this lens include a focus confirmation chip, I do not find DSLR focus confirmation lights to be accurate enough to count on for manual focusing.medium to large product images (how large may be limited by working space), for general studio work, for still life subjects and for artistic imagery. By f/4, with the Samyang's focus shift coming into stronger play, the Canon pulls ahead in the center of the frame performance (without making adjustments for the focus shift).

The biggest let-down of this lens is it’s manual focus only. And this is more critical than a wide or standard lens because the larger magnifications when shooting with a 135mm lens makes the depth of field shallower and thus focus harder to nail. If you’re similar to me at manual focusing you have to cope with the risk of having around 40-70% of your shots with less than optimal focus/sharpness – unless you work from a tripod. This certainly is a killer for many photographers who need to nail their shot with only one try – and fast. They should absolutely avoid this lens and look for an alternative with autofocus, there’s no denying it. But if you work from a tripod using magnified live-view, have the chance to swap the focusing screen for one better-suited to manual focusing, or simply have the time to take a second or third shot if necessary, then you need not shy away from considering this lens. Plus if you mount it on a modern mirrorless camera, you can exploit technologies like focus peaking to further ease manual focusing. The moment I tried the Samyang 135mm F2 for the first time after purchasing it, I immediately felt that it was a very special lens. I took a few shots with the lens on my way home after buying it. I was blown away when I loaded the photos into my computer. I had of course heard that this lens is supposed to be very sharp, but I had never before had such a full blown "wow" experience when reviewing the sharpness of a lens. If you want to preview the image field you can expect with a particular camera sensor and lens combination, Stellarium features a useful tool. The Image Sensor Frame tool lets you enter in the size of your camera sensor, and focal length of your lens (or telescope) to display a frame over the star map. To semi-automate taking this many images you will need an intervalometer that can connect to your camera. This handy gadget allows you to set your exposure length, the number of exposures, a short pause between each shot and allows you to be hands-free so you don’t have to keep pressing your camera’s shutter button. For the Nikon Z6 something like this https://amzn.to/3oIGrOS would probably be suitable, I have used a similar one successfully for my Canon 7D and 200D.Andromeda Galaxy, our neighbouring galaxy, was my first deep-sky image taken using this lens and is a great target for beginners. This lens has a long focus adjustment ring, with great tension. The focuser adjustment rotates roughly 270 degrees, meaning fine-tuning on a bright star is more precise. You’ll never have to worry about losing your position just by touching the lens, but you can always tape the position down to be sure. It maximizes the resolution by securing as much light as possible and minimizing spherical aberration and distortion. You should now be in focus! To guarantee that you are well within the focus sweet spot, you can stop down the lens to f/2.8 or f/4. This will give you a wider depth of field, but more importantly, it reduces the chance that your camera will drift out of focus as the temperature changes through the night. Note that the (unchipped) lens will not report the selected aperture to the camera and the aperture setting will not be recorded in the captured image's EXIF information.

It's terrible. Yes, she's isolated. Yes there's bokeh. But she might as well be in front of a green screen. There's just nothing there. It's just "girl" in front of blurriness. A 100mmL lens (which can shoot true Macro) is slightly more versatile than the 135mmL lens (which has a larger Minimum Focusing Distance of several feet!!). But the Bokeh is strong from both lenses and yet it is more powerful and distinct from the 135mmL lens than the 100mmL lens. For wildlife at a distance the 135mmL is more useful. For indoor shots and Macros the 100mmL will be more useful. You really have to think hard about which lens to buy but each fulfills a slightly different purpose with slightly different strengths and slightly different results. In the end I bought both although some people might consider the two lenses together to be too much.The Rho Ophiuchi Cloud Complex by Eric Cauble using the Samyang 135mm F/2 lens. See the full-size version on Astrobin. Final Thoughts More surprising is that, using a flat target perfectly aligned in the center of the plane of sharp focus, practically no change is seen over the entire aperture range until the softening effects of diffraction are reached. Film & Darkroom Film Clothing Instant Printers & Consumables Ink Jet Printing Canon Ink Jet Printers Ink jet paper Service Plans & More

One of the primary uses of both of these prime lenses will be as portrait lenses. I did a couple of sessions today where I exclusively used three manual focus lenses: the Rokinon 50mm, the Samyang 135mm, and a Zeiss Distagon T* 2.8/21mm. One minor challenge in this setting is that no EXIF data is communicated to the camera body (no electronics at all), so some of the advanced ETTL flash settings (like focal length and even aperture) are not going to be communicated to the flash. I entered these values manually, and away we went. I love shooting the 135mm focal length from a distance to create very shallow depth of field full length, environmental portraits with the great compression that the focal length provides. The Samyang proved a bit of a challenge for this type of shot, however, as there is not only no AF but also no focus confirm. I was using a Canon 6D with the EG-S focus screen installed. That does make visually achieving focus easier, but that advantage diminishes somewhat with the kind of working distance I was at (30-50 feet). I was not particularly happy with the focus accuracy I achieved here. Let me note here that part of thatFirst, the Samyang 135mm f/2 Lens shares a 31.5" (800mm) MFD (Minimum Focus Distance) spec with the Zeiss 135mm f/2 Lens. Here a comparison table showing the MFD and MM specs of similarly-spec'd lenses along with a set of 135mm-covering f/2.8 zooms. Resolution – at close distance the Samyang absolutely crushed the Canon wide open and remained better overall until diffraction became an issue. At a longer distance Samyang once again blew the Canon out of the water at large apertures.