Many of the boiling methods (molten speed wax comes to mind) simulate the process the fancy treated race day chains go through and are repeatable/re-treatable at home. Grease acts as a barrier against water incursion, and also the bearings and races coated in grease will dispel any water that does make its way in, forcing it to go somewhere else (think “oil and water”).

The cassette connects to the freehub with a combination of short splines and a threaded area on the freehub body. All export and retail can purchase our latest technology, low VOC’s PRO X Freehub Grease which can be shipped worldwide via air freight and Parcel Post from www. Otherwise, when servicing these items I follow the instructions and use the recommendations provided by the manufacturer. is recommended because it enhances friction between the post and frame, allowing more clamping friction at lower torque values, so your seat post doesn’t slip even at only a handful of Newton meters’ worth of torque. Do you use different lubes or suspension fluids on race bikes for different temperatures or weather?

They’ve been superseded by the freehub on multi-speed bikes though, because it’s lighter and more compact, so it can handle smaller sprockets and wider gear ranges. The freehub transmits your pedal power to the road or trail and gives your legs a rest while you’re still moving. Anti-seize is great when combining two dissimilar metals because it acts as a barrier preventing chemical bonding (seizing) from occurring.

Once you have a clear view on all of that you can fiddle around with various lubes, change your cleaning method etc.However, it is probably the number one thing I am asked about on the topic of lube and bearings and such. Insert a 10mm Allen key into the hollow tube-like bolt holding it in place from the right (drive side) and turn counter-clockwise. The number of points of engagement is the number of discrete positions in which the freehub can lock to the wheel in each complete turn of the wheel, once you stop freewheeling and start to pedal. I use a 50/50 mix of EP90 oil and a waterproof bearing grease which makes a nice semifluid consistency.

I have never experienced any issues with clutch related problems and that could be because of my service intervals. When you have the two ratchets together and facing each other, coat the teeth around the outer with grease and slide them onto the Thread Ring sitting on the axle. It won’t hurt anything to ride it this way, but it will have more drag than quality chain lube would have and it’s quite a sticky substance so it attracts dirt.

The cups and cones on these hubs are as new as the day I've bought them since I changed this grease out once a year, plus swap out the BBs every 20-25k. Most of it will likely only require a wipe with a cloth, but you want everything nice and clean for the new grease you’re going to apply.

Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! If you use the right semifluid grease then it has all the advantages of oil (keeping the seal lips wetted etc) with none of the disadvantages (it doesn't leak out at anything like the same rate). I've gotten the habit of disassembling my BHS/Bitex hubs and pressing the hub bearings in with a bearing press and drifts.

Brucey wrote:It is important to distinguish between shimano style freehub bodies and the others, where the freewheel body rotates on the axle using its own set of bearings, which is what I presume you have. I know other mechanics who simply use grease and swear by it, claiming that a properly built and perfectly tensioned wheel shouldn’t require a thread locking agent. Regarding Campa grease: whilst it was developped in collaboration with Kluber, Campa suggests it is a proprietary formula. Dry lube doesn’t last as long as wet lubes/oils, and dry conditions are friendlier to chain lube than wet, so it comes down to these and other factors.