Step 7: Now if you look behind the front of the engine bay and downwards, you will see the clutch bleed nipple and the pipe leading to the gearbox (that you disconnected earlier). The pipe is held in place at a rubber part of the pipe by a clip, unclip the pipe. Follow the pipe to the bulk head, and to your left of the brake fluid reservoir, you will see it clipped into the pipe coming from the bulkhead by one of the horseshoe spring clips again. The clutch pipe is also secured into a clip too under this, just pull it out. Once you've undid the horse shoe clip, the pipe can be easily removed. Step 8: Get a syringe and fill with clean brake fluid, slide under the van and push this fluid into the slave cylinder connector pipe. It is a bit messy, but more you get in there the better. The idea of parking the van uphill, allows the clutch slave cylinder pipe to face more upwards, which when the pedal is pumped will force fluid down, and force the air out of the slave cylinder, up the pipe, and out of the bleed nipple. I did this process for about 20 minutes in total to make sure all the fluid was flushed through, and all air was gone. Bleed the system by attaching a tube to the bleed nipple located on the slave cylinder which is accessible now that the battery tray has been removed. I wont go into the bleeding process because there are number is slightly different methods. Just remember to remove the plastic bag off the reservoir lid before starting.

Solution is replace master and slave together as you'll get a new fitting. Use copper grease on the fitting to coat the stainless spring fingers and it might come apart next time, but don't hold your breath.I did this, and worked first time for me. I have attached a diagram of the clutch pipe for reference. You do really need to pump the pedal between opening the bleed valve, and not just let gravity do its thing as haynes suggests, as this will purge the air out. REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC PIPE ON LATER CITROENS, PEUGEOTS AND OTHER MARQUES WILL OFTEN RESULT IN A HYDRAULIC FLUID LEAK. UNFORTUNATELY THE SEALS ARE NOT AVAILABLE AS A SPARE PART AND THE ONLY WAY TO RECTIFY THE LEAK IS TO REPLACE THE COMPLETE PIPE. OFTEN AT GREAT EXPENSE. Lightly abrade the cut ends of the remaining installed pipes to remove any burr taking care not to let any debris enter the pipe.

If yours is similar and that section of pipe is leaking, you might be able to source just the pipe from a scrap yard. Slide on the 8mm compression fitting ensuring that the olives are fitted, to each pipe end and you get good insertion into the fitting body.

Hoses & Fittings

Before refitting everything, clean out the breather pipe, and also use some wd40 to clean out the ball joints of the gear linkage, then use spray lithium grease with the straw to lubricate them. Use a bit of all in one oil on the arms on the gearbox that is operated by the gear linkage. This will give a much nicer gear change Tighten up the fitting but do not over tighten.and clean up the connector and pipe either side so it looks dry.

Your total price including VAT & delivery should now appear. Feel free to add and delete items or change the delivery method. Accurate dimensions are listed in one the diagrams. Please refer to those. It may give a clus as to whether it's worth a punt. Is it the pipe, or the self sealing coupling /connector / barrel joint which is leaking? My car uses a similar system, which officially is a fully sealed and pre-charged with fluid system. You buy either of the two parts, install, plug together and no need to bleed. I don't know about the clutch end, but at the master end, you can just punch a roll pin out to release the master cylinder from it's half of the pipe.The alternative is to break into the pipework, cut out the connector and improvise a different way of joining the two ends; this could cost almost nothing if you are handy enough. This has been done successfully by others on this forum. However, these days, most mechanics are really only fitters, and will just fit new components. seal the clutch reservoir with a plastic bag over the threaded top and screw the lid down tight. to reduce the risk of fluid dripping once you have cut the pipes.. see following. All well and good. But Fiat have used an aluminium case with stainless steel spring fingers inside to retain the fitting. The aluminium corrodes against the stainless and the considerable expansion of aluminium oxide = a ruined fitting that will never separate. Even if it does come apart, the components are scrapped by corrosion damage. OUR CUSTOMERS HAVE DISCOVERED BY TRIAL & ERROR, THAT THESE UNIONS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH SOME VARIANTS OF:VAUXHALL/OPEL