The ratios are purely trial and error. I would always err on as little IPA as possible to start if using a brush-if your paint is acrylic the IPA will melt that effortlessly. My initial mix was for airbrush, If I was brushing, 80 Pledge:15 IPA 5 Glycerin. If your paint coats are acrylic ( eg,Tamiya X/XF) then minimise your brush strokes, it should self level when you get the proportions right. The more you work the IPA in the more the colour coats will start to dissolve. Any chance of pictures to show this and equipment you're using?...A little evidence goes a long way. I never believe any internet content unless I can see the evidence of the results and the actual tools /materials in the possession of the person giving said advice. You'll find Pledge etc. is actually very useful but like any material adapted for a new purpose, you'll need to master it as opposed to constantly looking for one shot magic bullet fixes. Right now I'm learning to french polish and if you think using Pledge is hard...skills are earned not crowd sourced.

Here's what I used , no voodoo even the brush is an old Humbrol " sable" that i normally use for dusting. I would venture you have a slightly duff bottle. I would persevere and get some of the liquitex and start at a ratio of 1:20 neat and its should start behaving like this. Hope thats bit more useful than the usual " I use it everyday then wash my cat in it afterwards and it works brilliant, see." type of reply with no evidence. RE the brush painting, as I said I don't do any apart from detail touch ups ( and 1/72 pilots of late!) but would add you're never really going to come close to airbrushing using a brush unless you're @PlaStix who may be the person to answer your brushed gloss coat issues.However, on my test subject it worked remarkably well. I hand painted the Hurricane (apologies it is not a car!) in Tamiya acrylics then hand painted the Pledge over the top a day later, doing a Vallejo paints wash 2 hours later to bring out the panel lines. Does it need to be thinned with water or something, longer drying time etc? I'm genuinely confused so any pointers would be appreciated. I continue to read about the wonder of Future floor polish as a clearcoat and easy availability in the US. However, over the pond here in the UK its impossible to find. I went on a mission to find what I think is the closest possible and try it out... "Pledge Floor Polish".

However, I don't want to spend the committment building a kit to see it ruined by discoloration or, worse, gloppy goo or other problems that I can envision the gremlins of airbrushing foisting on me as I spray a coat of this stuff on something that's taken me months to nearly complete. B: Second thing I noticed was that its not drying to a consistent finish. I tried a hair dryer to see how long it would take, and some patches of the coated area went more satin, and others more gloss. Giving it an almost patchy appearance.I mean, I never sprayed the previous stuff through my airbrush given that ammonia seemed to be the only guaranteed means of cleaning it out and not risking destruction of the airbrush itself. When using the old stuff I just used a soft brush. However, when trying this with the new stuff, it was leaving brush marks instead of self-leveling and then it was drying to an inconsistent finish. The only difference was in the product rather than the application, and where the old stuff was more like milk, the new stuff is like unthinned Tamiya paint. It doesn't seem to flow or lay down as well and even days after application (while dry) doesn't look to have dried the same way, offering a collage of satin and glossy patches. It worked a treat allowing relatively easy wiping off of excess panel wash and also gave the plane a high gloss finish. After a panel wash application a matt clear coat could dumb this down (yet to try). You'll see others brands such as "Mop and Glo", etc.; but I'd avoid buying anything that is milky looking in the bottle. If it's as clear as water in the bottle, it may be useful, but it's also not a direct descendant of Future. I don't tend to build aircraft myself. I have a few 1/48 builds but, two of the canopies had already been painted up. The only one I might apply it to would be a 1/48 helicopter canopy. But yeah I've only ever brush applied the Pledge and so far the new one doesn't seem to like it much at all Notwithstanding the sandpaper surface of my mule, it seems to work fine with no brush marks. The liquitex just took a little longer to dry (2 hours instead of 1 hour). Nowhere near as glossy as my usual Mr colour UV cut gloss but if the paint surface was smooth, easily good enough to decal on and about the same as Alclad Aqua.

X-22 can be thinned in a few ways, to include Tamiya acrylic thinner, Tamiya lacquer thinner, Mr Leveling thinner, hardware store lacquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol. The amount is according to what you want to accomplish. So with all that said, I generally use either hardware store lacquer thinner or DNA. And I generally thin it no less than 50-50 ( in the paint world that means 100% reduction or equal volumes of each). I generally don't thin it more than 125% which is a bit more than 50/50 thinner to paint. It's something you play around with and get a handle on doing for yourself. The comment about it being frozen is a red herring, that was to do with with some internet hype last year when Badger found deliveries of Stynylres left on people's doorstep in the US blizzards ended up turning to sludge and offered replacements. Hence according to internet wisdom ,all modelling products now are ultra sensitive to cold and everyone is living in Antarctic conditions with our parcels turning into icicles on our glacier covered doorsteps... 🤣 What I would say is it made negligible difference applying onto an Oldsmobile body I painted with Halford car paint 20 years ago. Been trying to master Klear also recently. I did two trials one airbrushed neat and one brushed on with an old sable brush. To be honest I was reasonably pleased and both looked almost identical. The surface finish is a little grainy on both but not too bad. After reading the above I’m going to have another go with IPA and glycerine which I assume is 5% of the Klear and IPA combined and added to the mixture. There’s a Boots chemist in York so they should sell it I hope.

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Final word, reserve the Pledge/Klear for canopies and decalling, shove a 0.4mm needle in your airbrush , get you some Mr Color super UV cut gloss, Mr leveling thinner an extractor and a respirator then glass like finishes like this are yours, effortlessly: My first pass as promised: did panel on left with some added liquitex retarder/flow improver ( as I know its got glycerin in it and isn't just weak detergent) and on the right, straight from the bottle