Bioderma Atoderm Lip Balm glides smoothly on the lips. It feels a little waxy and takes a couple of minutes to fully sink in, but it’s nothing like those extra greasy lip balms that sit on your lips for hours on end. Phew! Sweet raspberry scent. I could do without it (fragrances can irritate sensitive skin), but it’s pleasant. How To Use It The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. Yes. And my lips dig it. Mineral oil is one of the most moisturising things on this planet. It creates a barrier on the lips that protects them from harsh weather, germs and bacteria, and anything else that tries to harm them.

Badmouthing mineral oil is a favorite sport of many, it is a cheap material and being connected to petrolatum makes it fairly easy to demonize. Paraffinum Liquidum/Mineral Oil, Synthetic Wax, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cera Alba/Beeswaz, BHT, Citric Acid, Fragrance (Parfum) [BI577] About Gio Trust us, if something is used for more than 100 years in cosmeticproducts, it hasadvantages. Chemically speaking, cosmetic grade mineral oil is a complex mixture ofhighly refined saturated hydrocarbons with C15-50 chain length.It is not merely a "by-product" but rather a specifically isolated part of petroleum that is very pure and inert. Yes. If you want to keep your lips soft and supple all winter long or repair damaged lips, Bioderma Atoderm Lip Balm can do the job.The lip balm does a fantastic job at preventing chapped lips. But can it heal them, too? Yes… with regular use. Even the most moisturizing lip balm doesn’t work overnight! But isn’t mineral oil derived from, well… oil, I hear you ask? Yes, but that doesn’t mean it’s bad. You can’t just put straight oil in lip balms, ya know? It’s super moisturising. It makes my lips softer and smoother – for hours. Usually, I need to reapply lip balm every couple of hours. Not with this. I carry it around in my purse, but I only touch it up a couple of times during the day. Smooth and creamy. Unlike most wax-based lip balms, Bioderma Atoderm Lip Balm doesn’t feel too waxy on the lips. It doesn’t just sit on top of your lips, either. Fragrance It is a great emollient and moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity.Occlusivity is one of the basic mechanisms of how moisturizers work and it means that mineral oilsits on top of the skin and hinders so-called trans-epidermal water loss, i.e water evaporating out of your skin. When compared to heavy-duty plant oil, extra virgin coconut oil, the two of them were equally efficient and safe as moisturizers in treating xerosis, a skin condition connected to very dry skin.

It does a great job at keeping my lips healthy, too. Winter has fully arrived in London, yet my lips haven’t noticed. They’re as soft and kissable as in spring. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties; following UVB radiation (the same one that comesfrom the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cellcultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". Not really that good. The famous or maybe rather infamous mineral oil. The clear oily liquid that is the "cheap by-product" of refining crude oil and the one that gets a lot of heat for its poor provenance. It is a very controversial ingredient with pros and cons and plenty of mythsaround it. So let us see them: Another super common myth surrounding mineral oil is that it is comedogenic. A 2005 study titled"Is mineral oil comedogenic?" examined this very question and guess what happened? The study concluded that" based on the animal and human data reported, along with the AAD recommendation, it would appear reasonable to conclude that mineral oil is noncomedogenic in humans."

The pros of mineral oilcan be interpreted as cons if we look at them from another perspective. Not penetrating the skin but mostly just sitting on top of it and not containing biologically active components, like nice fatty acids and vitamins meanthat mineral oil does not "nourish" the skin in the way plant oils do. Mineral oil doesnot give the skin any extra goodness, it is simply a non-irritating moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity. Inci Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax (Wax Microcrystalline), Synthetic Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Lauryl Pca, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Tocopherol, Lecithin, Arachidyl Propionate. While it is true that industrial grade mineral oil contains carcinogenic components (so-calledpolycyclic compounds), these are completely removed from cosmetic and food grade mineral oil and there is no scientific data showing that the pure, cosmetic grade version is carcinogenic. Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ethyl Linolenate , Bht, Ethyl Linoleate, Ethyl Oiled, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Fragrance (Parfum).

Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. This does not mean thatascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable ifascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. Even if it can beconverted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Hi, I'm Gio. I'm a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever - every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what's worth the splurge and what's best left on the shelf - using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.Mineral oil undergoes a strict purifying process that removes all traces of impurities and toxins from it. The result – Cosmetic Grade Mineral Oil – is so gentle, even sensitive skin can use it. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitaminC, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not evenin-vitro,about it. Yes. It’s a little bit waxy, but very soft and comfortable. It’s suitable for sensitive skin (as long as you’re not allergic to fragrance), too.