The number one question asked is, “Which shade is correct for my WWII _________?”The answer is all of them! Which one do you like? Ideal for adding to your paint to remove the smelly part of recoating in areas where the smell isn't acceptable. Our elimination additive will make your colour smell pleasant and pleasing; ideal for home projects, around the elderly and in almost any situation requiring more pleasant odours. But please beware that all breathing equipment and health and safety should be taken into account. Primer: We can also provide RAL Aerosol colours in a self etching primer ideal for aluminium, zinc, steel & re-coatable plastics For a standard respray of a jeep which is already green, 6 will do. But for a brand new restoration, taking into consideration all the small separate parts away from view, and the underneath could take up to 8 to 10. Always over-buy. Keep leftover tins for scruffs and scrapes.

If you are unsure we will also advise you on the best way to apply our military vehicle paints for the best results. We only use Axholme Signsin the UK which offer bespoke stencils on a next day service, and they have never let us down. They also have great tips on the best application. It is recommended to do it in a place whose temperature is between 15 and 25 degrees. If the painting or varnishing process is done in very hot or cold conditions, the final result may not be good.The most affordable supplier of custom filled BS 381C Olive Drab 298 paint canisters in the UK from the RAL Classic Colour Chart. So if there is any doubt as to which shade you should use on your vehicle, it is solely based on your personal preference. “Which shade is correct for my WWII _________?” We know that "The best form of advertising is the personal recommendation of a satisfied customer". Cellulose Spray paints: For most applications a Cellulose formulation is recommended. It offers fast drying and a flawless, durable finish. Spray application. All of our Enamels will need to be diluted by around 5-10% using Paintman Coach Enamel Thinners, thus ensuring the highest quality finish and maintaining correct drying times.

I accept that there were variations in shade (or do I mean hue?) and am not into all this colour modulation stuff. All I am looking for is a paint that, when applied to 1/72 AFVs and especially next to vehicles predominantly in British SCC.15, will not scream "wrong" to any tolerably knowledgeable passer-by. I brush-paint so something that does not require an excessive number of coats to achieve coverage and then matt down would be good. Acrylic good (Revell? Vallejo?) but enamel certainly not ruled out if it's decent paint that actually covers, dries and looks right. NB Tamiya XF62 is (or at least was) a good match apparently but Tamiya acrylics and brush painters are sworn enemies. No problem with paint mixes if nothing suits out of the pot.After a few years of research I was able to obtain original paint chips of Forest Green from 1943, 1949 and 1953. Original WWII USMC paint has been impossible to find since most of it was sold to the US Postal Service in the late 1940’s. Using these paint chips as well as referencing NOS International Harvester parts, it was clear as to what the shade of Forest Green was during the WWII and immediate post war era. This paint shade is a strikingly different green. At first it is hard to reconcile that this is the shade used, but then again the Marines were fighting a jungle war for the most part and their vehicles needed to blend in with tropical foliage. I thought the best way to highlight this was to paint a .50 BMG ammo box and place it on my M-20 and almost completed Ben Hur. Both of these are painted in TM9 OD Shade #8 (OD319). You can see the striking difference. I have also attached two pictures of an IH M5-6 being restored using the TM9 USMC urethane paint. If the surface is well covered and it is not your first painting project, you will be able to do it with a spray, although you will not apply many coats. However if you are not an expert we recommend using 2 sprays for an optimal finish. What temperature should the guitar be at during and after the process? I also have built four 1/72 Airfix vehicles (2 AFV and the RAF emergency set) exactly 48-45 years ago.

So if you are looking to replicate a factory vehicle, and want to use the same color as used during that time period, you can have the confidence that this is the correct shade. TM9 Ordnance Paint is on the left in the next image, the original paint sample is on the far right. The images that follow show a freshly painted M18 Hellcat using TM9 Lustreless Olive Drab Shade #8 and a newly installed NOS taillight. Using the correct shade of Olive Drab can save you time and money when installing NOS parts. RAL7013 is a very very greyish drab and the former base colour of th Austrian Army, going to brownish in sunlight. 0.7 dE is an extremely small difference... One should simply use RAL7013 if this were true for OD319 and ANA613!BTW I wonder which AFVs will be your "first five" after these 45 years. My list consists of: Renault FT, Renault UE, Mark IV, PzKpfwIV and PzKpfw V. Using a half-inch drive drill, three different sized paint mixers and a pry bar, and eight hours in the drill press, the paint was completely mixed. As the manual states, it can be reduced at a 50:50 mixture with a number of solvents. I then transferred most of this paint into new one gallon and quart containers. We also supply Chassis Paint, Etch Primer, Tyre Paint, Clansman Radio Paint, Engine Paint, Primers, WW1 and WW2 Helmet Paint, Water Leak & Roof Repair Paint etc. The following images show the final product next to its container. Also shown is the other product that has been available for quite some time. paints: If you require an even more durable finish then select the 2K option, 2k Paints are chemically hardened, they are activated by releasing a valve at the base of the aerosol, once the can is activated you have a twelve hour period for use.