Threading your mudguard through a rim brake calliper isn't always a simple task, and must be considered when investing in a set. Some fenders are designed to split at this point to offer full-length coverage on race bikes. Which length and shape mudguards do I need? Mudguards are an absolute essential for cycling on British roads, and while nothing can beat a set of full-length bolt-on guards with storm flaps for coverage, many bikes these days – particularly those built for performance – don't come with the necessary eyelets to attach traditional guards. This is where the market for clip-on guards has grown, and while they will always be a compromise they can reduce the need for an extra bike – and in the case of the Flinger Race Pro Clip perform exceptionally well. Full-length mudguards are commonly referred to as traditional mudguards, because they’ve been around for many, many years. They are most often a permanent fixture on touring bikes. Due to their length and sides, they cover a large percentage of both wheels and provide the best protection from spray generated by the wheels. Mudguards can even offer a performance advantage. Yes, really. By keeping you dry and comfortable, they allow you to train more effectively than if you’re wet and cold. By keeping as much of the water off your body as you can, you're going to be able to ride for longer, and faster, when the roads are wet. Think mudguards aren't cool and that they'll spoil the lines of your bike? Think again. Even professional cyclists fit mudguards to their training bikes through the winter.

You’ll be surprised at how much difference they make. Unless it’s raining hard, most of the wetness you feel when riding without mudguards is likely to have come from the road and your tyres. Mudguards keep you drier and more comfortable. Mudguards are key to keeping dry – or drier than you’d otherwise be – in typical British conditions. That’s especially true in winter when water tends to stay on the roads for longer. If you’re riding year-round, make sure you have some of the best bike lights to keep you safe too. Genetic describes the top sections as ‘semi-aero palm friendly’, meaning even extra-large hands get plenty of grip with just a single layer of bar tape.This bar is unusual in that the drops flare outwards by 16° while the tops rise 20mm from their central point. This rise will come in handy for those looking for a more upright position for long rides on or off-road without getting a new stem or – for anyone who has maxed out their steerer tube – a new fork. Threading your mudguard through a rim brake calliper isn’t always a simple task, and must be considered when investing in a set. Some fenders are designed to split at this point to offer full-length coverage on race bikes. Which length and shape mudguards do I need? It sounds like a faff and took a bit of experimenting and Dremelling, but the end result is actually pretty neat and works really well. Still a shame that the bike doesn't really live up to the dream of a lightweight aluminium rim brake road bike with space for 28mm tyres and guards! This is probably the easiest decision you can make surrounding fenders because your bike makes it for you; it will have eyelets for braze-on mudguards or it won’t. But that said, you perfectly well attach your own mudflaps to the Bluemels Basic and extend their spray protection that way. It’s simple (and cheap) enough to fashion a set from a few sheets of rubber - and there are even brands which offer funky designs, such as Raw Mudflap.

Mudguards are also a vital courtesy on group rides. Sit directly behind a bike that’s not fitted with mudguards on a wet ride and you’ll soon realise just how much water tyres can spray up. A long rear mudguard, preferably with a flap, keeps spray out of the face of the rider behind you. Many clubs and riding groups demand mudguards over the winter. The rear mudguard also mimics the fitting for SKS mudguards, with a hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge, and a sliding bridge fixing onto the seatstay bridge. Mudguards stop water and dirt from your tyres spraying upwards over you, your bike, and anyone riding behind.

This is probably the easiest decision you can make surrounding fenders because your bike makes it for you; it will have eyelets for braze-on mudguards or it won't. If your road bike doesn't have mudguard mounts, there are still a lot of mudguards options available to you.

If there’s a particular component that’s affecting your comfort, start there. If your saddle makes you numb half an hour into a ride, change to one of the best road bike saddles. Similarly, if your handlebar and stem are the wrong size, your bike won’t fit properly. You’re better off spending time and a little money getting the fit absolutely spot on before you start thinking about saving weight or making your bike more aero.

If you've never used mudguards, you’ll probably be surprised at how much difference they make. A lot of the water that covers you when you ride in the rain doesn’t come directly from the clouds, it’s thrown up from the road surface by your tyres, especially in lovely British drizzle. The three main components to a good mudguard are that it stays on, it doesn’t rattle and that it keeps you dry. The added bonus in this set of mudguards is that they were easy to install too. The downside, and partly my frame is to blame, was that the extensions didn’t fit meaning that I left some bits of my wheel unguarded. To prevent the aluminium from damaging your fork, the guard is given a pinched section that is narrow enough to slot between your fork legs, while remaining wide enough to not affect tyre clearance. This is great if your braze-on mount is on the front of your fork crown, but for anyone whose mounting point is hidden behind, the pinch is positioned incorrectly, so a bit of aluminium bending may be required. If your bike has rim brakes, you’ll usually need long-reach brake callipers, especially if you want to use mudguards with tyres that are 25mm or larger.

There are three widths available, and these 37mm wide mudguards are able to accommodate up to a 30mm tire. They looked in proportion when using a 28mm tire and there was a good amount of space to the side of the tire. Mudguards protect you from the water (and accompanying gunk) that gets flung off your wheels as they spin. They come in a range of different shapes and sizes from simple flaps to keep your bum dry, to full-length coverage designed to protect you, your bike, and the rider behind you. The correct length mudguard will depend on your circumstances, but if ever you plan on riding with others, you should aim for full coverage.Utilising a similar construction to SKS ‘guards, each mudguard has two stainless steel bridges fixed to it for the 4mm diameter, V-shaped stays to attach to.