I though it was the battery, but after installing a new one, the remote control still doesn't work. I set the camera to the right mode (pressing the little button next to the BKT button and selecting the remote icon with the main dial).

Nikon ML-L3 Remote Control - CameraWorld Nikon ML-L3 Remote Control - CameraWorld

In flash modes that support red-eye reduction, the red-eye reduction lamp will light for about one second before the shutter is released. In delayed remote mode, the self-timer lamp will light for two seconds, followed by the red-eye reduction lamp which lights for one second before the shutter is released. If you're shooting a subject in direct line of sight, you can use either the ML-L3 or ML-3 remotes (depending on your camera), which use a beam of infrared light to trigger the camera. The range on the ML-L3 is around 5m from remote to camera, while the ML-3's range is roughly 8m. To pair units, press the menu button to display the menus, then highlight pairing in the link mode menu and press OK. Remote control is cancelled automatically if no photograph is taken before the time selected for Custom Setting c5 ( Remote on duration (ML-L3), 0 Remote on Duration (ML-L3)), Off is selected for Remote control mode (ML-L3), a two-button reset is performed ( 0 Two-Button Reset: Restoring Default Settings), or shooting options are reset using Reset photo shooting menu ( 0 Reset Photo Shooting Menu).

This is one of the cheaper programmable remotes on the market, but as it is wired remote its versatility is limited. However, this needn’t be a deal-breaker as the Taimi can be pre-programmed with a timelapse sequence, so once you’ve dialed in your preferred parameters, you can leave the device to do its thing. The wired link also keeps power consumption down, resulting in a huge 300-hour battery life from two AAAs. Five cables are included, so you can connect to most Canon and Nikon DSLRs, along with some Sony cameras. The Wireless Remote Controller kit includes the WR-R10 transceiver (controller) which is attached to the DSLR and receives signals from the WR-T10 transmitter. Alternatively, you could use multiple WR-1 remote controllers, which are both transmitter and transceiver in one. Because these systems use radio frequencies instead of infrared, you aren't limited to line-of-sight operation. Their ranges are also much greater than infrared options – around 20m for the WR-T10 to the WR-R10, 50m for a transmitting WR-R10 to a transceiving WR-R10, and a whopping 120m for WR-1 to WR-1. Visit us and you'll always find a friendly welcome. Our policy is to treat our customers as we would like to be treated ourselves, a simple ideal that we try hard to live up to. Thank you! I actually found an old Pixel TW-283 remote release I had and bought a DC-2 cable for it and it works perfectly. Once connected, the camera will ask if you want the connection wizard to copy the profile to the computer. By choosing yes, it will do this and pair the camera with the computer.

ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control (Infrared) | Nikon

Pictures taken with an optional ML-L3 remote control are shot in single-frame advance mode, regardless of the option selected with the release mode dial. The Nikon ML-L3 features a one button simple design. It uses Infrared (IR) to transmit to the camera for the desired shutter release. The real Nikon one is faultless, still on original battery after over 20 years (bought with my D70 in 2004).

The wireless remote communicates with your camera via a separate hot-shoe mounted receiver unit which in turn connects via a sync cable. It’s a slightly bulky combo, but no other device like a phone or tablet is required, and the simple radio frequency connection works instantly with no prior setup. Choosing the length of time the camera will remain in stand-by mode waiting for a signal from the remote control, see A> Custom Setting c5 ( Remote on duration (ML-L3); 0 Remote on Duration (ML-L3)).