Skill Level: Bluing can be challenging, especially for hot and stainless steel bluing. Beginners should start with cold bluing or seek professional guidance. Based on the finish you already have on your gun you can either get a glossy or a matte finish. Means if you have a polished steel surface you will be getting a nice glossy look. However, if it’s a sanded surface the matte finish you will be getting is highly appealing. Parts should be dipped in the bath for 15 minutes and scrubbed while being immersed to remove any dirt, oil, or grease that could get in the way of the bluing process. You can use any of chemical cleaners such as sodium triphosphate, naphtha, denatured alcohol, and acetone. Rinse the cleaning solution in a few minutes. Step #3 Immersing of the Gun Parts in the Bluing Solution

The frequency of bluing maintenance depends on the gun’s usage and exposure to environmental factors. In general, it may need to be redone every few years or as soon as signs of wear or corrosion appear. 12. Does gun bluing decrease the value of antique firearms? Modern home hobbyist versions of this process typically use a hydrogen peroxide and salt solution, sometimes preceded with a vinegar soak, for the rusting step to avoid the need for more dangerous acids. [9] Fume bluing [ edit ] Chemical coloring of metals– Process of changing the color of metal surfaces with different chemical solutions

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Rust blue is mostly found on older firearms that predate the use of the much more efficient hot bluing method. It is also found on high-end custom firearms, as many consider it the top of the line as far as quality is concerned. The other major use of rust bluing is for double shotgun barrels. The temperatures reached during the boiling process are below the soft solder’s, making it safe to do without the risk of the barrels falling apart. Yes, the bluing kits I have mentioned here in the list can successfully blue all the guns irrelevant of their sizes and types. In fact, if you know how to use them correctly these can also be used to blue cast iron surfaces on your old guns. You of course want them to last longer, so invest in a kit that will last longer and is available at a cheaper price. You’ll want to start by judging the state of your bluing. If you think it’s too damaged, you may decide to go ahead and remove it entirely. Application of Additional Coats: You can repeat the immersion and quenching process multiple times for a deeper and more durable blue.

If you need a whole firearm done, you might want to ask a gunsmith to help you. A nitrite bluing, for example, will give your gun a protective and appealing, glossy finish. Heating the metal before applying the bluing solution can help the gun soak in the material better and keep it longer. There are also methods of cold bluing, which do not require heat. Commercial products are widely sold in small bottles for cold bluing firearms, and these products are primarily used by individual gun owners for implementing small touch-ups to a gun's finish, to prevent a small scratch from becoming a major source of rust on a gun over time. Cold bluing is not particularly resistant to holster wear, nor does it provide a large degree of rust resistance. Often it does provide an adequate cosmetic touch-up of a gun's finish when applied and additionally oiled on a regular basis. However, rust bluing small areas often match, blend, and wear better than any cold bluing process.

Allow the solution to heat up (this should take around 15 to 20 minutes). In the meantime, place all the parts into the basket. Please note that the baskets that come with deep fryers are often zinc-plated. These cannot be used unless you want to have a very bad day. Ensure the basket is stainless or regular steel. Surface Preparation: Use sandpaper and steel wool to prepare the metal surface for cold bluing. Ensure a smooth, polished finish.

For over 20 years Cheshire Gun Room Ltd has been exporting and importing firearms, worldwide, to destinations as far ranging as Europe and the US to Nepal, Australia and beyond.We can also deal with the imports and exports of accessories such as scopes, moderators, ammunition and most of the items displayed online. However, if you find the original bluing worn out, its good to go for hot bluing for getting better results. The common uses for nitre bluing are screws, pins, and various other small parts. Larger parts are rarely done this way as it wears relatively fast and provides no extra corrosion resistance. Additionally, heating up larger parts to those temperatures can change the tempering of the part, potentially affecting its strength and durability. It is largely used for decoration over practicality and is a really beautiful accent to other bluing methods. Hot Blue vs. Cold Blue To remove your bluing, you’ll want to use specific chemicals, such as (which is actually an automotive rust remover made from a phosphoric acid). When done properly, rust bluing is one of the best-looking options. It has been used for a long time and pre-dates hot-bluing methods. It has a certain depth that isn’t accomplished with hot and cold bluing techniques. Rust bluing is completed by applying a chemical solution to the steel and allowing it to form a surface rust. This surface rust is boiled and carded off using an extremely fine wire wheel. The process is repeated over and over again until the desired finish is achieved.Treating with an oiled coating enhances the protection offered by the bluing. This process is also the only process safely used to re-blue vintage shotguns. Many double-barreled shotguns are soft soldered (lead) or silver brazed together and many of the parts are attached by that method also. The higher temperatures of the other processes as well as their caustic nature could weaken the soldered joints and make the gun hazardous to use. [4] Do not simply apply the bluing solution once. For a proper finish, you’ll likely need to apply it around seven times, using a new piece of steel wool to smooth out every new layer.