Bashing an unhappy customer who has opinions about your business or it’s practices is not something a professional representative of a thriving company would do. Those claims of business loss would be handled by your attorney in a law suit, NOT babbling on the internet where people are trying to find out REAL REPUTABLE information to make informed decisions. Let’s take One Example for reactive Load: A refrigerator having a rated Real Power of 100 watts at 220 V AC has a PF = 0.6. So Power=Volt X Ampere X P.F becomes 100 = 220 × A × 0.6 Therefore, A = 0.75 Ampere

Second, the only potential for real power savings would occur if the product were only put near in the circuit while a reactive load (such as a motor) were running, and taken out of the circuit when the motor is not running. This is impractical, given that there are several motors in a typical home that can come on at any time (refrigerator, air conditioner, HVAC blower, vacuum cleaner, etc.), but the Power Saver itself is intended for permanent, unattended connection near the house breaker panel. How does plugging one of these “devices” into an outless anywhere in the house affect anything at all plugged into different circuits and different outlets. The “explanations” in the artile and in the desperately positive comments seem to be base on the idea that there is just one line connecting all the devices in the house in serial. In fact, the devices are all connected in parallel and while there may be interactions between the amount of current flowing through different devices connected in parallel, plugging a box with a few capacitors into on outlet does not immediately come to mind as a way to dynamically influence anything going on with all the devices drawing power from all the other outlets – whether on the same circuit of different circuits.Second, as far as I know, my energy costs are based upon a measuring device outside my home to calculate how much electricity/energy I am using. How does your device (or devices) interact with this Electrical Meter? It would seem logical to have some kind of surge protector/regulator outside the house, before the electricity enters the counter. How does your device affect the quantity coming into the house? Or does your device affect the electrical demands of the devices in their start-stop cycles? (I do recall that many years ago there was a big rush to leave all lights on in skyscrapers because turning the lights on took a greater surge and thus it was less expensive to leave them on.) Personally,, if you want to do this, calculate (or have a knowlegable friend do it) what size capacitor(s) is/are needed, then place this new unit in line between pump and power source and switch it automatically (relay or solid state relay) so that it is only online when motor is actually running. Keep in mind that 1 hp is approximately 750 watts plus motor inefficiency. Capacitor will level out the surges but won’t save money because residences are billed by kilowatt usage only. Also, due to the way ac voltage and current flow operate, the capacitor will raise your average voltage, perhaps higher than the motor is designed for. Home pool filters usually do not truly need 1 hp so there will be more inefficiency due to this than power factor correction. Manufacturers use one hp so that they can use one filter/pump assembly for most pool sizes that they make. You may save more if you install it on wire one guage size larger than spec’d – especially if the wire length is close to or over 100 ft. All you did here was try to discredit Mr Sun because his words and due to your business dealings not working out. You resolved your issues with him, move on. Your product is certainly every enticing. However, I have yet to find any information on the Web that gives me reason to invest. Basically it is claimed that Power savers work on the principle of surge protection technology. Power savers work on straightening this unstable electric current to provide a smooth and constant output. The fluctuation in voltage is unpredictable and cannot be controlled. However, the power savers utilize current fluctuation to provide a usable power by acting like a filter and allowing only smooth current to pass through the circuit. Power savers use capacitors for this purpose. When there is a surge of current in the circuit, the capacitor of the power saver stores the excess current and releases it when there is a sudden drop. Thus only smooth output current comes out of the device.

Now suppose after Installing Power Saver if the PF is brought to about 0.9, the above result will now show as: 100 = 220 × A × 0.9 And A = 0.5 AmpereThird, you say “there are no electricity saving benefits for heating appliances, such as electric stoves, electronic cookers, etc.” So wh;y bother with your device? Please elaborate on the “etc. I’m a computer engineer, and this product is BS; Don’t waste your money! First the lines coming out of your breaker box are each on it’s own circuit, so that the refrigerator is on it’s own line, the hot water heater is on one of it’s own, the AC, microwave, and individual rooms etc.