If growing long term in containers, a regular top dressing of amendments and a fresh layer of compost at the start of bloom and again at the end of each cycle keeps everything status quo. If adding some inputs you didn’t have in the soil initially; top dressing is also ideal. Compost teas have been widely used and recommended within the no-till scene. If using compost teas, we suggest making a compost extract instead of a brew. Add compost to water, agitate thoroughly, and then apply straight away. This allows microbial development in the soil, not in a tub of bubbly water. The same can be said about instant microbial teas, which are equally effective. You can then mix the compost into your garden at the rate of ¼ to 1 cup finished compost per cubic foot of soil. Consistent Application Actinomycetes were once classified as fungi, and act similarly in the soil. However, some actinomycetes are predators and will harm the plant while others living in the soil can act as antibiotics for the plant. Fungi

Also, by reusing your soil from your previous grow (which may well be peat-based) you are reducing the negative environmental impact of peat extraction with all associated carbon emissions (see our post here for more info on this).There are lots of articles out there about the ratio of brown to green and rules about how often to turn it, but nature has been composting since plants first began and will do it for you over several months. What to Put in Your Compost As with Grow AUTO this blend has been specifically developed for auto plant varieties. It contains pretty much all ingredients contained in our Bloom blends, but is different in the following important ways, it's: It often takes several months to a year for compost to be “finished.” Finished compost looks like dark, rich, healthy soil. The most attractive aspect of growing using living soil and no-till methods is what happens at the end of the growing cycle. Rather than throwing away the soil or adding it to outdoor beds, growers can retain the same containers of soil for reuse. That means no tipping out containers, no dust, and no re-filling. If you look after the soil, it will improve over time, and your harvestable goods will also get better. If intending to re-use the soil from the start, you should already have worms doing their work and a mulch layer creating a compost effect from the top. This way, all that is needed is the addition of new plants as space becomes available. Just dig a little hole and go again! Reinvigorating Living Soil

Soil science is the study of its formation, classification, and ecology. It tells us that dirt consists of the following components: Feed the organisms and microorganisms. Allow organic matter – also known as dead plants, leaves, stems, and roots – to remain in the garden to decompose. (“Decompose” means something is eating it.) Soil: 2-4ml per litre of substrate (or up to 1 tbsp per gallon) every 2 weeks through the vegetative & early flower stages. Coco: Double the soil quantity. The first and second parts of this series look at living organic soil, its benefits and how to build it following nature’s lead. This final part will help you maintain and improve it over time.

Living soil is rich in microorganisms. These microscopic life forms live together in a soil food web, which is a complex and intricate food chain. This self-sustaining life cycle leads to a greater variety of nutrients in the earth. The plants that grow here are not only beneficiaries of the earth; they live in symbiosis with the other inhabitants. Insects, centipedes, worms, nematodes, microbes, fungi, and bacteria that feed on that organic matter. The first step is to make a base mix from dry materials like peat moss, coco coir, ready-made base mix, and compost. Add a soil amendment that will help aerate the mix. For this, perlite or pumice is excellent. Start with potting soil as a base mix, and add water to create the desired density.