Be very aware that using varnishes and other finishing products can change the colour and look of your miniatures. Those awesome models you see at high level painting events or found in the studios of some miniature manufactures have zero varnish on them. When you spend as long as I do looking at miniatures you notice the small changes in the colour and overall look that the varnish does. These never make the model look better (when applied as protective coats), so if you are painting models to the absolute of miniature perfection then varnish is something you want to avoid. As mentioned previously there can be a degree of difference with some of these. The Vallejo Aerosol Satin is gloss, yeah it sounds stupid but it is so shiny it puts actual gloss varnishes to shame, and it also takes about 3 weeks to dry. This provides a smoother layer, which is what you want for the decals to fit on to on curved surfaces; it's less necessary for flat ones. Simply put, matt varnish of the same type as gloss has extra 'stuff' in it (a matting agent) which makes the surface slightly bumpy, which is also what makes it scatter light and thus look matt. Gloss varnish dries smooth, and thus, shiny.

Hey Psy, I wrote anther edit as you must have been typing. I've never heard anyone recommending that you paint your mini gloss before completion. Fair enough if it works for them, but I'm frankly HORRIFIED at the concept. Gloss paint is super smooth, it doesn't take drybrushing AT ALL, it screws with your opacities, and if you paint with thinned paint it encourages your layers to slide into the crevices as you describe (I use a consistency approaching milk to achieve a smooth finish when painting with a brush).There are exceptions to the rule but this is the rule I follow and have, as I said never had a problem.

I have previously used Vallejo 70.510 Gloss Varnish but feel this is an inferior product on all accounts when compared to Galeria. Vallejo only sell acrylic and PU varnishes. I generally advise to avoid acrylic varnish. It can yellow over time due to sunlight. It's less protection. It's only real advantage is it's a bit cheaper, which only really matters when you're buying a *lot* of it. You'll note that the first 'matt varnish' you link is acrylic, so we can scratch that one. I still have 100 of mls of acrylic varnish but I've relegated it to craft project status, simply because considering the amount of effort and expensive paint (and the price of the models themselves!) that goes into these things, the cost of the varnish is piddling. But like, that's my opinion and I can afford to do so; YMMV. Are you doing it for an effect, like a headlight? Then paint that iny area once you're done with spraying on the matte. So that leaves vallejo PU varnishes. They do a standard polyurethane, which is fine, or their 'premium' line. Lately, they've also introduced the mecha varnish. I'm 99% convinced the latter two are the same stuff, or at least very, very similar. The main difference is the paint line they're attached to - premium is marketed at airbrushed RC cars, mecha line at airbrushed gundam etc. Mecha varnish is available in a 17ml size, while the smallest premium bottle is 60ml IIRC.

Colors for hobby and fine arts

same configuration as before but with a drop of liquitex flow aid: less clogging but still happening The thing that stopped me from buying any more rattlecans was my airbrushing kit. The precision of a fine nozzled airbrush is spectacular compared to any rattlecans. And I use a lot less product. Yes the initial investement may look offputting. But for me the cost equated to something like ten cans of GW products. And I now have the flexibility of being able to spray any colour I want. No more toxic smelling primers, paints and varnishes drying on my work bench. I usually do 2 coats of varnish to seal the paintjob, and noticed that I can’t really get this stuff to come out of my AB properly with lower psi settings (15-20psi), it just won’t. Also, when it clogs, it seems to dry at the needles tip and suddenly spews varnish chunks when trying to clean it. FYI you can use acrylic gloss(clear coat) spraypaint from a can to remove the frosting effect, but it leaves your miniatures VERY glossy, even if you try to tone down the gloss with several coats of satin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoBwMghF20A I might try a matte coat with a brush to bring down the gloss. I'm using Vallejo series of varnishes.

Edit edit - Another interpretation of what you mean is to paint over the gloss varnish by hand to add more detailing. Yes and no, see the comment above about the spray not getting into all the crvices. You can mitigate that somewhat by very careful spraying, but ultimately you're spraying a clear liquid and estimating ceverage is hard. The other very popular option is rattle can based, Testors Dullcote. Goes on extremely matte, and dries very tough, being a lacquer. Also stinks like the devil! I am going to use Vallejo matt (brush) varnish and Winsor & Newton Gallery series (brush) matt varnish. Is anyone using em for producing serious results ?(I mean not only for tabletop but for display too). Or does somebody knows a better product than them?

Oh and the sprayer bottle.. I doubt that it would work. The nozzle will get clogged very easily I fear. If you want proper misting of the paint or varnish you need a higher pressure than a pump bottle of that size can deliver. I would be extremely careful using that spray bottle. It could come out clumpy or spotty. In fact I wouldnt try it at all, but that's me.