Such systems essentially involve a roller inside the boom or mast with an electric motor that rolls up the sail to reduce its size (reefing) or to stow the sail away after sailing. Manufactured in stainless steel, these types of hook are used in conjunction with slab reefing kits for securing the mainsail tack, and can be mounted above the gooseneck or used at the stemhead to accept a jib tack. With a modern facility located in Plymouth, Massachusetts, we design and manufacture one of the world's most complete and highest quality product lines of stainless steel. Reefing is one of those step-by-step procedures where, when it is really needed, it is likely to be done in less-than-ideal conditions. In this reefing system no winch is needed to tension the reefing line because you can put enough tension on it by humping the reefing line between the cleat and the turning block.

Mainsail reefing Offshore Sailor: Mainsail reefing

We are constantly reporting on the latest innovations in the marine industry which offer weight savings whilst, at the same time, increasing safety factors. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network. Likewise, if you are constantly reefing your mainsail to the first or the second reef the exposed area is being stretched at a greater rate than the hidden section. About 4 feet up from the foot or bottom edge of the sail, you will see two or three or more holes sewn into the belly of the sail. Gather up the sail and as neatly as possible tie those lines around the bottom of the boom using a “reef” or “ square” knot.It’s particularly suitable if the main halyard goes back to the cockpit but if you’re content to employ two crew members that’s not essential. Choosing the right furler is a question of boat size and SWL (safe working load), sail area, performance level and budget. There will be another on the aft edge of the sail or the leach of the sail which is where you will attach your outhaul making that the new clew or back corner of the sail. We recommend taping all items in place first before drilling any holes andthe line to ensure friction is kept to a minimum.

Reefing 101: How to reef a mainsail and when to do it Reefing 101: How to reef a mainsail and when to do it

Most sails with reefing cringles also have smaller grommets across the width of the sail at the same level as the reef points. Affordable and powerful electric winch handle Ewincher has recently introduced their new electric winch handle - Ewincher SE, which stands for Special Edition. But what works better than the rings, in my opinion, and is not often mentioned, is to just have a loop of webbing - the webbing being passed through the cringle and around the front of the luff and then sewn so a loose loop is formed. Well built sails will be able to handle the strain that comes from sustaining a reef and there are many ways to reinforce your sails to prolong their lifespan. I find that especially so without dropping some slides of the reefed part of the sail out of the track.Often forgotten, fender covers save your boat from scratching and extend fenders lives that are constantly exposed to a high volumes of UV and friction. The designed draft (depth) in the middle of the sail dictates that, as the sail is rolled up, the edges of the sail roll proportionately faster than the middle of the sail (where the draft leaves more material). If you receive your goods and believe them to be faulty, please contact us straight away with a brief description of the problem. Ease the Halyard to just below the marked “Reef” position, pull in the reef line and secure, attach the tack reefing cringle to the reefing hook, then tension the Halyard.

Reefing Your Mainsail: Are you onboard with reef hooks?

While more efficient in terms of lines, it requires someone to go forward to attach the sail to the hook at its reef point, negating one of the benefits of a dedicated two-line system. Going through each and every step and seeing if it can be improved is the only way to make it as smooth as possible.That is why some skippers don’t ever reef, because they don’t want to be out there when the seas turn gloomy. Hook and cringle is the simplest option as far as moving parts and friction: cringle goes over hook, re-tension the halyard, then tension the reefing line (probably with a winch mounted on the mast or boom), and you’re done. If the sail is flogging heavily, this can be difficult and it may be easier to use the topping lift to raise the end of the boom up to the reef clew. The clew line is used as before but this time the tack has its own line to pull the luff of the sail down.

Barton Reefing Hook Gooseneck or Stemhead Fitting

Ahead of the green whipping, there's a white one which they then winch through the clutch to tension the main.Beside its gives us a real reason for always wearing our harnesses, tethers, lifejackets, designer boots and wet weather gear instead of just sitting around in the cockpit in them /forums/images/graemlins/smile. Unfortunately, the cumulative friction can make for heavy going – firstly in taking in the reef and later when it comes to shaking it out again. Although the line can be led back to the cockpit, it’s usual for this to be done singlehanded by the crew member at the mast, since there has to be someone up there to deal with the cowhorn. When the sail reaches the desired reef point, secure the halyard and the reefing line, go back on course, and trim the sail.