I’m really excited to share with you all another 1 hour project which also makes a perfect gift. This Crochet Glasses Case is created using the Even Moss Stitch which is one of my favorite stitches due to the interesting texture it creates. Now take that long straight seam that meets the angled seam and pin down the lining and outer for just one inch, then stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and trim. This creates the convenient spot on the finished item where you can reach in to get your eyeglasses out of the DIY eyeglass case. To do that before cutting this place your fabric right side to right side, so the wrong side of the lining is facing you. Now cut the angle, or lip as it’s known and pin along that angled edge. You absolutely NEED to sew one! Scroll down for the link to the pattern for the eyeglass case - and see how to get it for free.

You’re nearly there. It just remains to neatly close the opening on the lining seam with your machine or hand stitch it closed using a ladder stitching or a slip stitching STEP 11: Finish the sunglasses case I wanted my eyeglasses pouch to be generously sized, so it will fit any size eyeglasses and especially, will be large enough for ANY size sunglasses. And I wanted it to have a decently stable outer layer for protection. And I wanted it not flat. Also, it had to be pretty! What do you say, have I succeeded?

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Now you are going to take that flat seam and stitch a neat line on the lining side next to the original line you stitch. This is called under-stitching and will prevent fraying, hold the seam in place, also giving the edge a neat finish when turned.

Trim the quilt-as-you-go panels to the required size using a quilters ruler, cutting mat and rotary cutter. Using the printed pattern, cut these pieces from fabric (just mark the darts, don't cut out the darts): You need less than one fat quarter of fabric altogether - use matching or contrasting fabric scraps! I used three different prints from the Lucy June collection designed by Lila Tueller for Riley Blake Designs (it's gorgeous!) and added one single piece of hardware - a magnetic snap. Super happy about how it turned out! Supplies to assure a good fit of lining, use a larger seam allowance when sewing lining. The seam allowance should gradually increase from the usual ¼" where the lining meets the outer fabric to ½" at the sides and bottom. Step 10 - Turn And Topstitch See how to sew an eyeglasses case using my free glasses case pattern - now in the summer, you can use it as a pouch for sunglasses, it's large enough! It also doubles as something else - which I only noticed later. Scroll down to find out what it was - and get your free eyeglasses case pattern!In most post for my Cocoon Hanging Basket I mention that I have a LOT of sunglasses. I’ve been looking for a way to keep them safe and scratch free in my 3 Hour Tote bag when I throw everything in it for a day out. This glasses case is perfect. Or you can use my eyeglass case template and transfer the marking so that you know exactly where to stitch. Pin in place or use sewing clips to prevent shifting, then sew around using a ¼" seam allowance, leaving a hole in the lining for turning. Also, it's good to taper the lining by a quarter of an inch. I'll explain it in a bit: Bring the FRONT pieces together by placing the front pieces with right sides together and sewing along the top (slightly curved) edge. Like before, use a ¼" seam allowance.

Open out the pieces and turning both the seam allowances towards the lining side, press flat along that curved edge so it’s nice and crisp. STEP 5: Understitch the lining OR do you want a printable copy of the WHOLE tutorial? Scroll to the bottom of this tutorial for more details! Now it’s time to push the lining into the outer fabric case and make sure they fit snugly into each other and lie flat before giving them the final press. And there you are – one eyeglasses or sunglasses case done and dusted. Stitch around the fabric rectangle leaving a turning gap at the base of the lining, using a 1/4″ seam allowance, ensuring you do not catch the casing as you stitch. Trim the corners to reduce bulk.

LINING: For the lining try to choose a thin polar fleece, or fabric with a brushed finish. Even a soft cotton will work. This just give some padding to protect the lenses. Make sure the colors for the outer and lining work well together.

Start centrally-ish on your batting, lay a piece of one of your favorite fabrics right sides facing you, place a second piece of fabric, which is the same length, on the top, the wrong side facing you. Stitch through the three layers of fabricwith a 1/4″ seam allowance and straight stitch, thus attaching the fabric to the batting. If you’re workings with some lightweight fabrics, you’ll need to add a little structure to your main fabric. Place the main fabric on top of the bumpy side of the interfacing and press with an iron from both sides. There is a faster way to cut the fabrics for this DIY glasses case. I’d like to cut all three pieces at once so I place the interfacing with the bumpy side up, then place the outer fabric with right side on top and then I place the lining with it’s wrong side up. If you are using one fabric instead iron your fusible fleece to the wrong side of your main fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Cut the pattern pieces for the outer casing, the lining and the fusible interfacing – you’ll need one of each. As you’ll see on the eyeglasses case pattern piece one side is side is angled slightly. So you’ll need to cut the lining mirrored.Less than a fat quarter of fabric (less than 50 x 55 cm) - I used 3 different prints from the Lucy June collection Don't want to use fusible foam? You can use alternatives like are a layer of SF101 plus Decovil Light or high-loft fusible fleece - make sure to visit this interfacing guide for beginners - it will make your (interfacing-related) sewing life so much easier! And your bags and pouches prettier. Finished Size of This Diy Glasses Case If you'll use fusible foam it's good to trim a quarter of an inch around the piece to reduce bulk in the seam allowance. (image #2 above) Don't trim the piece if you use a non-fusible stabilizer. Step 3 - Fuse Stabilizer To Fabric Notch and trim the fabric on the seam allowance for easier turning, then turn right side out. Press and close the opening in the lining. If you are using a patchwork fabric now is the time to sew your patchwork pieces together (see above). I always start with a larger piece of batting than required in the pattern.