You’ll find an ever changing menu of seasonal produce that never scrimps on quality or flavour, and a selection of fine wines to match. The team of merry men and women he's assembled (head chef Chris Shaill and pastry chef Emma Jackson are both ex-Barbecoa, Jamie's former flagship steak restaurant) have crafted a menu that tracks with the sort of food the celeb chef is now well-known for: homely, British food with a twist.

Those in the know will recognise the names behind it – the hotel is a collaboration between recognised architect and interior designer Francois-Joseph Graf and the 300-year-old Cadogan Estate, envisioned by world-renowned French hotelier Costes.

Mains of roast turbot and artichokes or perfectly plump Cornish lamb with anchovies are there for the taking, although serves are happy for you to skip a main and head straight to dessert if a four-course supper sounds a little too on the heavy side.

Tables are dressed in white linen topped with dainty flowers, with decorative copper birds hanging from above. Murano looks a little different thanks to a slick refurb, but inside you’ll find the same classy, elegant cooking. The starters are a joy, from the Carlingford oysters in a koji mignonette, to the grilled flatbread slathered with trout roe and a horseradish cream that clears the sinuses without immolating them. Forward-thinking practices are embraced wherever it can, from zero waste cooking to sustainably constructed interiors, while the menu harks back to days gone by with updated takes on old-school British classics.Recently, I was in a small village in northern Sweden, all lakes and forest and red-roofed houses, and asked a young local where people met up. Opulent and theatrical in equal measure, the themed rooms of MiMi Mei Fair present a grown-up wonderland for those of us who love the whole dining experience. Babur has long been a local favourite in Forest Hill, taking residence since 1985 and growing a loyal fan base ever since.

I want to make it better, so I offer an explanation: “It was only for a few minutes, just to get a feel. Another of London’s beloved old-timers, Rochelle Canteen is still where you go when you just want great, seasonal, British food with no messing about. A long-standing cult favourite with Londoners, Quality Chop House has been serving up rustic, comforting British classics for over a hundred years. Look no further than Jonny Lake and Isa Bal - the ultimate pairing - who have a great thing going in Bermondsey with clever European cooking and worldly wines from unheralded grape-growing regions. Tendril offers a (mostly) vegan menu that puts vegetables in the spotlight, rather than fake meat and heavily processed alternatives.This is an unbuttoned place for dinner from one of Britain's best-loved chefs making his comeback at last.