I didn’t try making two-part molds with Oyumaru, but it is possible. This video shows how to use a similar material called Blue Stuff to cast parts of a small alien figurine. This should give you some ideas of other ways you could use this material to make molds. Using Oymaru Molds

There are other craft thermoplastics on the market. Some brand names are Polly Plastics, PolyDoh, PolyMorph, ThermoMorph, Friendly Plastic, and Moldamer. These may be similar to InstaMorph, or they could have different melting points and hardness after forming and cooling. Thermoplastics with Polymer Clay? I had wondered about pouring resin into oyumaru.. anyone tried that? the exotherm of the resin concerned me.. would your average resin really get hot enough to reform the mold? Because Oyumaru melts in hot water, however, you can’t bake polymer clay items in the mold. You also want to keep Oyumaru molds away from hot areas such as attics and cars in summer. How Good Are Oyumaru Molds? Because Oyumaru is relatively stiff, even when melted, it will not work well to create molds from soft, fuzzy, or very flexible things. So it works great to make a mold from a button, but not so well to make a mold from a leaf. (Though if you pressed a leaf into warm Oyumaru, it would take the texture of the veins quite well.)Oyumaru works nicely to make molds from small sculptures and charms, to create texture stamps, or to copy the texture of something to be impressed onto modeling clay, polymer clay, or even metal clay.

plastic cups: one for the compound A, one for the compound B and one to make the mix. You should label them even if it is quite easy to recognize which is which.

Where Oymaru works great with polymer clay is to create textures. You can “copy” textures from everyday objects with Oyumaru. It’s too stiff to make a flexible mat, but it works great to make a texture stamping tool. I can imagine using Oyumaru to mold a ribbon filigree shape from a picture frame. You could then push polymer clay into this mold, making multiple shapes to be used on many more picture frames. Are Oyumaru Molds Durable? If you’re in the UK (and EU), Clayaround carries Oyumaruas well as Metal Clay Ltd., who also carries other thermoplastics. I just heard from Sue at Creative Journey Studios in Georgia, and they have Oyumaru in their shop. And if you’re in the EU, Happy Things has it, too. (Let me know if you know another good source.) Other Thermoplastics As the oyumaru never gets into a quasi-liquid state is quite complex almost impossible to reproduce the smaller details of the pieces e.g. small hold. Furthermore once the oyumaru is out of the heat source it will start to cold down and harden up,which is a problem with big pieces. this stuff is amazing, and for the hobbyist like gold. However there is room for improvement to get finer details. InstaMorph does have excellent possibilities in your craft studio, however. You can use it to take textures from things and to build texture stamps for polymer clay. You can color InstaMorph with pigment pellets the company sells. It can be used to fabricate plastic pieces for broken toys, tools, etc. When the InstaMorph is in the melted state, it is a clear putty that acts like a putty or clay. You can, therefore, “sculpt” items like figurines and toys that will be hard plastic once it cools down. It could be used to make new handles for things, costume parts, and more. Your imagination is your only limit here.Brilliant and inexpensive! So easy to use too. I haven't used any other moulding compounds so I can't compare, but I've had a lot of fun experimenting with this product, with some really good results.

Simply form the Instant Mold around the object you wish to replicate. To remove air bubbles, roll your thumb along the Instant Mold as you press it into the object – this will press the material into deeper crevices while forcing any trapped air out. NOTE: If you are making a simpler stamp mold, there’s no need to wrap the entire object – just put it on a clean flat surface and roll the Instant Mold over the top of it, being sure to force out any trapped air. This type of mold is easier to make and use, but only works for objects with a flat and featureless side. Don't put this on your hotplate or in a dehydrator to dry your metal clay - your mould will soften and lose its shape. Only air-dry until the metal clay is dry enough to pop out of the mould. Taking ornate details and transposing them onto another model, like lifting a wall engraving from a Cities of Death building and putting that design onto a Sisters of Battle Tank. Radomes, doors and windows being cast. The upright door to the left of the 50p shows how thin you can make a casting. Honestly, I've turned away from instant mold products for the time being, partly because of the issues mentioned by the OP. In my town, there is an art school which has spawned lots of art supplies stores - some of these sell RTV silicone (not instant mold, takes half a week to make a two part mold) at prices cheaper than the internet. While start up costs and learning curve can be significant, here it is cheaper mold for mold and cast for cast than the instant mold + epoxy method.This is the moment of truth – open the Instant Mold “clamshell” and pull out your prize! If you’ve done everything right, you should pull out something like the photo above. A wavy “frill” mold line is normal. You can weigh the quantities but I find simpler to take the right quantities with a syringe, specially for small pieces. Is important to always take the compound A with one syringe and the compound B with another one. If you change the syringe a part of the resin will cure inside it and render it useless. I use something similar, called Oyumaru, for making tiny doors and radomes on 1:144 helicopters. It has to be warmed up, the warmer it is, the easier it can be shaped. Here are some views of the stuff I've made. Turn any old toy into a genuine 40k terrain piece with a tasteful smattering of skulls and cogs. This stamp mold was pulled off a Cities of Death building.

When I first looked at instant mold, it became apparent that its re-branded 'Oyumaru' a Japanese craft item. Even imported, its cheaper and available in many colours. Years ago I painted a rare and expensive Genestealer Patriarch on Throne model on commission – while I had it, I took the opportunity to make press-molds of the intricate throne details. Years later, I made this cast of the Patriarch design to use as the banner for a counts-as Acolyte Iconward. Instant Mold, like most other pleasurable objects, should be firm yet slightly rubbery to the touch. PS. Don't put this on your hotplate to dry your metal clay - your mould will soften and lose its shape! Only air-dry until the metal clay is dry enough to pop out of the mould.It is a mixture of 2 components that must be mixed in the same proportion of quantity. Mold your shell as long as the siligum is soft, it stiffens after 10 min, you can then unmold the object and use the mold to make copies of forms. The siligum goes into the oven at 130 degrees without any problem so you can directly cook your polymer clay in this mold. This mold remains flexible you can use talc if you need it. This mold can also be used for the use of the epoxy resin but not the UV resin. This stuff is actually a toy from japan and if you don't mind a 30 day waiting time can be got cheaper however it is amazing and worth every penny i use it to mould and minis and also to make bouncy balls thanks to just using hot water to reshape it i can use it again and again The oyumaru is a material with a similar consistence of a hard rubber at room temperature that soften with heat application and can be use to acquire a certain form that will conserve once it cools down. The big advantage of this material is that it can be reshaped lots of times, making molds of certain pieces and then repeating the process to make molds of other pieces with the same material. I guess that with a big number of repetitions the material will end up degrading but for the moment I haven't had any problem and I have heated it a lot of times.