My review copy has Nichia 219c, which is a high CRI variant. I’m very pleased this is an option both because I’d prefer the high CRI (90+) and also I think XP-G3 is just really, really bad. So I have Nichia, and I think you’ll be happier with it too. All the modes are easy to get to and navigate with the single button. It only takes a minute to get the hang of it, unlike many competitors.

Overall, my measurements are pretty close to what Rovyvon says they should be… if you follow the ANSI rating which measures the output at 30 seconds. But I think Rovyvon usually states turn-on values, and I seem to be reading higher than that. Perhaps Rovyvon got a really nice batch of Nichias, or maybe my sensor really liked the High CRI light.Like other Rovyvon lights, in High and Medium mode, output starts dropping immediately as soon as you turn the light on. RovyVon A5 battery life: runtime graphs Mode ANSI FL1 standards: The runtime is measured until the light drops to 10% of its initial output (30 seconds after turning on). This does not mean that the flashlight is not usable anymore. The last column shows how long the light actually works till it shuts off. If there is a + symbol, it means that the test was stopped at that particular point, but the light was actually still running. This happens on certain occasions, with certain drivers, firmware, or batteries. Peak beam intensity and beam distance measurements I would have really liked a Moonlight shortcut.Other than that, I can live with this for a keychain light The A28 and A29 are the same aside from the tritium slots on the metal body. I still have never installed a single tritium in any light, ever. Should I do this??

I used this light as my main light during a power outage for hours at a time and when I went to recharge the light it only took 20 minutes to fully recharge — indicating I really did not use a lot of the battery. Overall it has continued to impress me. Light Quality Fully charges in about an hour, maybe a bit more, 330mah internal battery is trivial to recharge off any battery bank. Also it can be used while charging if needed. So… yeah, it’s definitely cold white. But at least the tint is neutral and the DUV actually registered as negative (slightly pinkish) though nearly perfectly on the BBL.

The Aurora A8 Pro was inspired by the demand of a compact, portable UV-C light, as small as your keys. Front LED uses dual-band wavelength UV-C (270nm) and UV-A (390nm-400nm) from Seoul Semiconductor, and the glass is quartz, the reflector is CNC-machined brass smooth reflector. For the front light, it is UV-C light. I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint! Conclusion What I like I really like this choice of materials. The stainless bezel protects you from drop damage. The GITD is pretty neat. The polycarbonate keeps things extremely light weight. And another attribute that I like about the polycarbonate: it’s pretty forgiving. I have a tendency to hold keychain lights with my mouth, especially while helping the kids at night. Have you ever sneezed while holding an aluminum flashlight with your teeth? No? Well, it hurts. Bad. Polycarbonate is a less risky material if you’re going to be holding a flashlight that way. In 2022, the long-awaited titanium aurora A4 finally comes out with a USB-C charging port. It supports both USB C to USB C and USB C to micro USB charging, no more an extra USB cord now. And here’s the light beside my custom engraved TorchLAB BOSS 35, an 18350 light. I reviewed the aluminum version of that light in both 35 and 70 formats.

Light Quality

The button is a side switch, just below the head. It’s a metal-cover e-switch. The metal button has a metal surround, which both gives a place to find with your finger, and helps prevent accidental presses. Hard to say if there’s LVP but the stepdowns mean you’ll definitely notice when the battery is low. That said, I’m fairly sure lipos are more resilient (or at least safer) when discharge is low.

Lux was measured by a UNI-T UT383 BT at 5 meters. Lumens were measured in a homemade lumen tube using a TSL2591 sensor, calibrated with a Maukka calibration light. The temperature was monitored with a MLX90614 IR temperature sensor. Lumen measurements Main LED Low (2 lumen, 70hrs)- Good for more simple night hiking, cooking, or camp chores. My most used setting. Memory: when the Light is on one brightness mode for more then 3 minutes, it will automatically select this brightness next time your turn the light on. IP66 "equivalent" leaves something to be desired. The washing machine is a bit of a torture test for it, but seeing that it is so small it's not hard to imagine that this scenario happens all the time so it would be nice if it was more waterproof. The switch always felt a little bit flimsy, which is what ultimately failed, granted not from normal use.

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Micro USB instead of USB-C. Also the dust cover eventually disappeared so it would be nice if it was more sturdy, this may have prevented the washing machine from killing it, who knows. Measurement disclaimer: Testing flashlights is my hobby. I use hobbyist-level equipment for testing, including some I made myself. Try not to get buried in the details of manufacturer specifications versus measurements recorded here; A certain amount of difference (say, 10 or 15%) is perfectly reasonable. What’s Included