A standard 1.25" eyepiece usually has got the field stop more or less at the connection between the 1.25" nosepiece and the wider housing. The field stop of the eyepiece should be in the same distance from the FlipMirror as the camera sensor. That's ca. 24mm, if you attach the Wide-T-ring directly to the FlipMirror. Then you can use I took the glass (four lenses plus spacers) out of a Meade 6.3 reducer/corrector and put it into a 2"cell that has 2" filter thread (M48) on the outside. This way the focal reducer fits inside of the 2" nosepiece of the flip mirror body. This arrangement helps to keep the total length of the assembly at a minimum. On an astronomical (CCD) camera, the sensor is closer to the connection thread than on a DSLR – if it is closer to the FlipMirror than the 29mm of the eyepiece clamp on upper port , you may need to insert a T-2 extension in front of the camera.

BTW, I just got my first view on M74 from the side of my house on a really busy main street in the red zone of long beach california. The image doesn't look impressive,actually it's terrible =), but I found it thanks to the platesolving. I now think I have it worked out, although I need some clear skies to test my theory. The key is the two sets of 3 hex screws on the top of the body, just above the mirror arm pivot points.

Alternatively, we would gain a little more leeway and make do with an extension sleeve if we put a golden 1mm T-2 spacer instead of the 7.5mm sleeve in front of the camera - but we want to show as many options as possible here. In summary, while my flip mirror focal reducer works well with SCT's, I wouldn't recommend to cannibalize a nice refractor to work with it. A lot needed to be cut from the tube and the resulting optics would probably have lots of aberrations. The T-2 flange focal distance is standardized – even a mirrorless camera needs 55mm with a standard T-ring. So if anyone can help me and suggest way's for the flip mirror to fit on my scope, If would of great help. Der Flipp Mirror ist ab Werk bereits sehr gut justiert, sodass im Normalfall keine Nachjustierung nötig ist. Hier liegen zwischen dem Baader Flip Mirror und anderen Produkten (auch einfachen Zenitspiegel) Welten und ich habe schon einige gekauft und wieder verkauft!

The Baader helical focusing eyepiece holder is a luxury. The ep holder that came with the flip mirror could be used just as well but I had the Baader part, so I used it. The width of the spacer may need to be changed if a rather different overall reduction rate is desired. I am not sure, if the 120mm achro could be focal reduced down to f/2.5-f/3. Chromatic aberration of refracting optics is getting worse with more bending of the light. And f/2.5-f/3 requires a LOT of bending. Also, you needed to cut a LOT from all tubes. A 120mm f/2.5 refractor is about 1 foot long. Those eyepieces where the field stop is closer to the eye or exactly at the transition from the eyepiece body to the 1.25" nose-piece can be inserted into the eyepiece clamp up to the stop.The FlipMirror II Star Diagonal allows a variety of permanent adaptations to your telescope 1 .Use the rotary knob 2to switch between the rear port 3and the top port 4;you can use an optional toothed belt to operate it with a motor (not included). An autoguider or a calibration lamp can be connected to the bottom port 5. It looks like your taking a n f/10 to f/3, so a total of x0.3 reduction without too much noticable coma/vignetting It’s the center of the three hex bolts on the base with the larger head and recessed into the base. The other end of this bolt protrudes into the case and the mirror rests on it in the down position – thus by adjusting this bolt you can easily adjust the up/down alignment of the camera and eyepiece. https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/2-inch-sc-thread/baader-adapter-2%22-(male)--t-2-(male).html If you are an observer and an imager, then having to swap instruments (cameras, eyepieces) is a reality because every telescope just features one "exit" port. Improving your workflow, especially during astrophotography is the goal set out for the Baader Flip Mirror II (BFM II). The BFM II is not just a simple flip mirror but much more, as unlike other flip mirrors, there are three ports.

Am Anfang (aus der Ferne) machte ich mir Gedanken über die Orthogonalität des Klappspiegels, dessen Fassung, Drehlagerung und vorallem über die Verwindungssteifheit des gesamten Gehäuses. Denn daran sollten eine SBIG STF-8300M, eine kleine Guidingcam Alccd-QHY 5III 174 und ein Okular platz finden. Ein beachtliches Gewicht für so einen kleinen "Würfel". Meine Bedenken haben sich nach einigen Nächten praktischen Einsatzes in Luft aufgelöst. Bis auf eine kleine Sache, was die Adaption des Off Axis Guider für Baader FlipMirror II (BFM-OAG) Classical physics, the collection of theories that existed before the advent of quantum mechanics, describes many aspects of nature at an ordinary (macroscopic) scale, but is not sufficient for describing them at small (atomic and subatomic) scales. Most theories in classical physics can be derived from quantum mechanics as an approximation valid at large (macroscopic) scale.[3] For more about this, please take a look at this article: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/using-the-flipmirror-the-correct-working-distances/ were sometimes used for the connection to the telescope. For more aperture the 2" / S52 Nosepiece (#2958551 , € 41,-)

Thank you for digging up the old thread about the flip mirror. Since then I have switched to using a Lodestar, that has a larger sensor than what the LN300 had. Correspondingly, I also modified my setup and reduction factor. I still have the same flip mirror with the Meade 0.63x reducer but on the camera I now have only a 0.7x reducer. This change was needed due to the larger 9mm diameter sensor of the Lodestar. (As opposed to the 6mm diameter sensor of the LN300.) The original more aggressive setup would strongly vignette the larger sensor and also cause ugly distortions in the outer regions of the field. However I've managed to capture a video of M42, which was good, however I tried to get M81 and M82, And by god it was a pain!!! trying to get my target in focus through my eyepiece, and then take my eyepiece out and put my stella cam in, and refocus again, to get the image sorted. Adjustable T-2 thread on top for eyepiece clamps, video modules (up to 32 mm image circle) or even a binoviewer For the adaptation to the telescope, you can use Baader SC / HD Ultra Short T-Adaptor, 9mm optical length # 2958500B, yes.

In the up position the mirror is quite low in the light path. I expect extra vignetting in the case of a full frame sensor. Note: Once cameras and eyepiece are set up, you can use a stop ring, so that you can always bring them into the same positions by putting them into the eyepiece clamp until the stop ring does its job. Such a stop ring is included with the QHY 5-III-462C CMOS Camera (#1931026 , € 295,- € € 191.75) Please note that the upper port is restricted by the T-2-thread and the diameter of the diagonal. The usable field is 32mm, equal to our 32mm T-2 prism diagonals. Javier Moreno about his product: "A mirror fulfils its function, but I wanted to create a mirror with more to offer than that. Usually, the last glimpse of everyone before leaving the house is the one in the mirror. So why don't dropping all the small necessary things we need before we leave the house there?" The shaping is organic. To the top, downwards and once around itself: Flip is rotatable. The base in form of a tray makes Flip an object of practical storage space for small things. Javier Moreno's design studio knowingly renounced geometric rules for the shape of the mirror – it should be free and organic. The soft silhouette makes up an interesting contrast to the materials glass and steel and it offers a friendly and inviting appearance to the mirror. Reinterpretation of the Dressing Table

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the camera sensor is close to the front of the blue camera body. In our setup, the image plane is just a little bit outside of the OAG. Out-of-the-Box, the camera would barely be inside of the eyepiece clamp, and the clamping screws would be right on the UV/IR-Cut filter. The solution is one Baader 1¼" - 31.8mm nosepiece extension with 1¼" filter thread on both sides (T-2 part #05) (#1905130 , € 19,-) to set the eyepiece permanently to the same focus position as the camera. Or you can extend the overall length a bit more with the T-2 Fine-Adjustment ring 1mm (gold) - Aluminium - in the picture the golden 1mm ring was used, other lengths are also available. Finally, I’m going to cover what might be considered the most important part – the mirror itself. I must admit to being no real expert in how to judge a flat mirror, but it seems to have an even surface with no blemishes. Star images both in and out of focus were as I’d expect and didn’t show any unusual problems. filters are screwed on the 2" nosepiece of the flip mirror ahead of the focal reducer. 1.25" filters go on the telescop-side threads of the Scopestuff 1.25" second focal reducer.