Ahhh, the quietness of using a good old Mitre Box without having to wear a dust mask or ears defenders... Bonus !! But I digress :-)

Depends how many cuts you are making, of course. For a hobbiest, it’s a luxury. For somebody trying to feed his kids, some sort of miter box multiplies labor tremendously. The ability to adjust the miter box for multiple angles and cuts can make projects much easier and more efficient. Look for models that allow for adjustments so you can get precise results without having to constantly reposition the box every time you need to change the angle or depth of your cut. Number of Compartments That helped, although for me it turned out that twisting the handle worked even better than pulling to one side. Lubricating the rods also helped. If it is is decent usable shape, go for it. If its a rusty clunker with missing parts, let it go. Hand boxes last more than a couple lifetimes. Keep in mind you only have to worry about the central 60% or so of the saw plate if you only use the saw in the box ( a good idea) you still have to joint and file the whole plate.Choose a size that’s suitable for your project and will fit well in your work area. If you’re working with large pieces of wood and have plenty of space in your workshop, then a larger miter box would be suitable. On the other hand, if you’re working with smaller pieces and have limited space, then a smaller miter box is a better option. Adjustability And I think some Stanley boxes were extendable for width of cut, but don’t hold me to that. Some had wood tables and some didn’t. The wood tables need replacing once in a while. My box had a metal groove the saw dropped into below the table height. If you didn’t adjust it properly, you either didn’t saw all the way through the work, or you dulled your saw instantly. I usually set a folded business card in the groove and set to that. It gave just the right clearance. You have to change that setting each time you sharpen the saw. And when you get it you can haul the saw out when people start bragging about their big dovetail or tenon saw. I think he misspoke on the saw. It usually was the tooth line length that mattered. My Miller Falls saw is marked 26” and is 33” OA. The Stanley 28” saw is actually 35” long.

I already scare people. My “dovetail” saw is a 14″ Disston. Someone had a new fancy dovetail saw, light and precise, so I ran a cut with it, then pulled out my big honkin’ saw, and mine had just as fine a cut….but it cut about three times faster. Hardwood fences or clamps offer strength and stability when working with long pieces of wood that may be prone to shifting during operation. Additional features, like aluminum extrusions, offer reinforcement against any unexpected movement that may occur during cutting. Cost Notice the Models Nos ressemble strongly the 244, 246 and 358 with an added 2 in front? There was also a relatively short lived 2360, but it was a metal cutting saw and bear no ressemblance to the 360 which was a wood cutting MB. More on these later.If you look around, you will find other fine craftsmen, who either used them in the past or are still using them, so yeah, they would do. And lots of framing shops (as in picture frame) used those Nobex for years. Mine, incidentally, came at auction in a lot from a picture frame shop. I used a Miller Falls box for 25 years and only went electric in the 1990’s because the company I worked for paid half, and the fellows I had to share my box with weren’t very careful. A circular saw blade is disposable and the boss paid for them.

As to the tension on the slide, there were two things I remember. Some saws had a hole that you could puta brad in a hole to prevent the tapered pawl from slipping into its notch if you were close to a predetermined angle but wanted to be just off it. And underneath that area was a screw to adjust the tension or drag on the swing arm. You could make it stiff or loose. A well tuned saw gives a very smooth cut, and it should be the sharpest saw in your quiver. If you know a good sharpener, this is the saw to spend the money on, at least so you know the goal. for most of my career the company paid for my sharpening. 290 teeth is a lot of sharpening. If the box has 6” posts, you need a 6” saw. I have both size posts for my box, but I never bought the 6” saw. I figured I could get one used if I needed to. Never did. THose saws are heavy beasts. The length of the saw mostly had to do with lots of cuts at a steep angle. A longer saw took fewer strokes. A sharp saw matters more. Remember Stanley Motto: The Tool box of the world... They were on a quest to become Tool maker's to the world, with a product for everyone at every price points.Features such as etched measurements or magnified windows can help promote accuracy and ensure precise cuts. Etched measurements indicate where the saw blade should be positioned while magnified windows allow visibility when making delicate adjustments or fine cuts. Support Features Something else to know is that they used the suffix A to denoted their first Aluminum model and the Suffix M indicated a Metal cutting MB. With two exceptions, the No 109 and No 2360 were metal cutting MBs but they never sported the suffix M. Confused yet? Lets try another riddle...