Great henleys are made to last. Their makers expect that they will be worn next to the skin, and worn over and over and over again. You can feel this in the cuffs, which don’t relax, even after multiple washes. They keep going, and they keep fitting great. If you’re looking to buy a henley thermal, I recommend going with a lighter color, like white or off-white. As a general rule, you should always put the darkest layers on the outside, with lighter layers underneath. The same style rules apply to henleys as they do t-shirts: fit is king. The shoulder seams should cut right where your shoulder blade ends (not your shoulder muscle). Any extra room through the torso and arms will swallow you up and make a henley look sloppy, just like the same oversized fit does with t-shirts. When not just any blue will do, it’s got to be Pure Blue Japan. They are the undisputed world champions when it comes to textured, vibrant blues. Though their reputation is largely based on their slubby and character-drenched denim, they’ve really upped their basic game in recent years. Their slubby tees and longsleeves have leapt off the shelves, and it’s not hard to see why when you get up close with one. Rub the face of the garment between your fingers. It shouldn’t feel thin or flimsy. At the same time, it shouldn’t be stiff or rough to the touch. It shouldn’t feel silky smooth either, but you should feel a strong desire to put the henley on and feel it next to your skin.

There’s so much variety across the different styles of henley, so they’re truly a versatile, year-round piece. Other PBJ henleys to consider: Hemp Blend Henley (with horizontal stripes) available in Indigo x Blue and Indigo x Red The best makers use loopwheeled cotton. What selvedge is to denim, loopwheel is to cotton, and it’s even easier to spot once you know what to look for. Loopwheeled cotton is woven around a cylinder, so it has a huge advantage over other forms of cotton: no side seams. Once you’ve ditched the side seams, the premium you pay for loopwheeled tees and henleys (and that trademark tubular fit) is more than worth it.

Clutch Café ships from the UK. If they’re sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy Pherrow’s, try: Son of a Stag (UK), directly from Pherrow’s (Japan), Maplestore (Australia) Other Real McCoy’s henleys to consider: USN Wool Henley Undershirt (warm and military-grade tough), Double Diamond Eyelet Knit Henley (looks a thousand years old brand new), Double Diamond Wale Knit Henley (micro-rib classic) The differences between a well-made henley and a barely passable one might not be immediately apparent, but once you know what to look for, you’ll have no trouble telling the pretenders from the genuine well-made article.

They’re a pillar of comfortable and fashionable looks, and we’re going to help you find one that will be the first thing you reach for in the morning. Well-Made Henleys Are Timeless

If you want the best selection, try one that specialises in vintage workwear. They’re the ones most likely to have at least a few of the well-made and essential henleys we’ve included on this list.