On the paler end of the scale for blues and greens, the less saturated Briar Queen Chill finds itself sitting alongside Aethermatic Blue.

Don’t forget to tune into our special Hang Out and Hobby sessions running ahead of the #WarhammerPaintathon, where our hosts will be on hand to show you just how these new colours work. I’m not a big basing guy. I prefer to make things as simple as possible so I can move on to the next model. Therefore, Games Workshop’s Texture Paints are a real life-saver for me. Verdict: Dry compounds do what they say. But are they really needed? As mentioned above, I’ve rather had more bright layer paints for more flexibility. The tones of the dry compounds are all very light, so I recommend drybrushing them over a dark basecoat first and add a wash or shade second, which not only tints those bright highlights but also helps to conceal the typical cloudy effect drybrushing creates. Textures At the end of it, you should have a smooth consistent yellow base that you can then shade or highlight as you choose. Every once in a while, make sure to rinse the brush in the clean water, even with the glaze being used regularly, the layer paint is gonna wanna dry a little on the brush, use the paper towel to remove excess water from the brush after, and take it from the top again.This will be called something different in other places. Go to your hardware store and show them a few photos from this article and you’ll be fine. If you missed a spot, you’ll notice some underlying primer peaking through. Take your brush and repeat step #2 with the Yellow Contrast Paint. But, only apply it to the missed spot. Lizzie: Like many, painting yellow has always been a challenge for me. Not any more! Imperial Fist, alongside Ironjawz Yellow and Bad Moon Yellow, provides the perfect solution to your yellow painting needs. Blue paints are getting new options in the latest range. Celestium Blue slots between the brighter Talassar Blue and darker Ultramarine Blue. This is a lovely kit and I’m really happy with the results. There certainly were many fiddly bits, with many ropes and hidden crevices breaking up the surfaces and hiding out of sight. You’ll also need to decide for yourself if you want to go with the facemasks or not, but overall this is a very distinctive team (with clearly identifiable positionals!) that makes a great visual impact on the pitch.

Just like Mantis Warrior Green, this green ups the balance in favour of yellow, making for an eye-catching tone with a wide range of uses.I agree, the casandora yellow over white works for normal minis, but I think pooling and uneven tone would be an issue for bulk shading vehicles unless you thinned it to more of a glaze and spent a fair bit of time on multiple layers. Straight yellow by brush similarly usually needs multiple thin layers to look decent, so again would be tedious at the scale. Color Space Conversions Decimal 16698970 Binary 11111110, 11001110, 01011010 Hexadecimal #fece5a LRV ≈ 66.0% Closest short hex #fc5 ΔE = 0.817 RGB rgb(254, 206, 90) RGBA rgba(254, 206, 90, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.462, g: 0.375, b: 0.164 RYB red: 61.907%, yellow: 99.608%, blue: 35.294% Android / android.graphics.Color -78246 / 0xfffece5a HSL hsl(42, 99%, 67%) HSLA hsla(42, 99%, 67%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 42° (42.439), saturation: 65% (0.646), value: 100% (0.996) HSP hue: 42.439, saturation: 64.567%, perceived brightness: 83.303% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 61.748, S: 97.044, L: 84.974 Cubehelix H: 40.569, S: 1.640, L: 0.814 TSL T: 2.230, S: 0.181, L: 0.812 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 19% (0.189), yellow: 65% (0.646), key: 0% (0.004) CMY cyan: 0% (0.004), magenta: 19% (0.192), yellow: 65% (0.647) XYZ X: 64.793, Y: 65.956, Z: 18.989 xyY x: 0.433, y: 0.440, Y: 65.956 CIELab L: 84.974, a: 4.817, b: 62.352 CIELuv L: 84.974, u: 39.126, v: 72.811 CIELCH / LCHab L: 84.974, C: 62.538, H: 85.583 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 84.974, C: 82.658, H: 61.748 Hunter-Lab L: 81.213, a: 0.288, b: 42.986 CIECAM02 J: 80.800, C: 50.349, h: 84.149, Q: 177.099, M: 44.029, s: 49.861, H: 90.541 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.846, jaune: 8.864, green: -0.656 LMS L: 72.731, M: 66.487, S: 19.765 YCbCr Y: 193.922, Cb: 69.972, Cr: 157.308 YCoCg Y: 189.000, Cg: 17.000, Co: 104.500 YDbDr Y: 207.128, Db: -176.228, Dr: -89.156 YPbPr Y: 207.872, Pb: -63.520, Pr: 29.336 xvYCC Y: 194.525, Cb: 72.202, Cr: 153.770 YIQ Y: 207.128, I: 65.861, Q: -25.942 YUV Y: 207.128, U: -57.636, V: 41.121 Okhsl h: 86.403, s: 0.970, l: 0.851 Okhsv h: 86.403. s: 0.697, v: 0.996 Okhwb h: 86.403, w: 0.301, b: 0.004 Oklab l: 0.872, a: 0.009, b: 0.142 Oklch l: 0.872, c: 0.142, h: 86.403 Munsell Color System 2.5Y 8,5/10 ΔE = 1.836 Brand Color IKEA ΔE = 3.258 Random Colors True to this tradition, the worlds of Warhammer have featured deserts heavily. The famous Battle of Tallarn in the Horus Heresy takes place on the the eponymous planet, turned into an irradiated wasteland by the Iron Warriors. In the Old World, the lands of Araby and Khemri were based on North Africa and the Middle East, which have a large number of desert and semi-desert regions, and of course the Mortal Realms contain all kinds of locales – Aqshy, the Realm of Fire, is an obvious choice for a desert landscape, but any realm could feature them. Ghur is home to the Bone Desert for example. Step 4 – Drybrush Karak Stone. This paint is extremely similar to the color of Armageddon Dust, but a little bit more vibrant. Drybrush Karak Stone across the entire base, including the slate chips, until there is a bit of highlight on all the raised bits of the texture. Be sure to drybrush all sides of the slate chip, as that’s how you get your defining lines on the stone that you can see at a distance. Apothecary White and Gryph-charger Grey give you two blue-hued ways to shade White, but Dreadful Visage is a pale grey shade with a hint of lilac.

Ultimately, I’ve discovered that I prefer using a regular brush more than airbrushing most of the time. Even though painting yellow across large models is still easier with an airbrush (see this 3D printed Imperial Fist Assault Tank paint job), I feel more accomplished when I finish a miniature painting with a regular brush. your choice of yellow layer paint (I like a bright yellow so I go with Flash Gitz, but you can choose what you prefer) More variety is always a plus, especially for people like me who paint on an army level and hate to mix up paints. With 145 paints, it seams the new range leaves nothing to be desired, doesn’t it? I think there are too many muted greens for once, but the biggest flaw in the design of the new range is that the lightest tones can only be found amongst the dry compounds. The colours of the layer range are often not bright enough to be used for a final, extreme highlight, especially when you paint in a style similar to the ‘Eavy Metal team. For example, if you want a true pink (like Changeling Pink), a light purple (like Lucius Lilac) or a light blue green (Hellion Green) you still need to mix. If they had scrapped dry compounds altogether and made their tones as regular layer paints, there would be much more flexibility. You could have used them for controlled highlighting and blending, but also for drybrushing, since it’s possible to drybrush with every type of paint after all. They did this rudimentary with the blue greens, which all have Dark Eldar themed names ( Incubi Darkness– base, Kabalite Green and Sybarite Green– layer, Hellion Green – dry compound), but otherwise there are a lot of inconsistencies. E.g. when you want to paint a flat blue, you’ve got Macragge Blue, Altdorf Guard Blue and Calgar Blue from dark to light – two Ultramarine and one Empire themed name. The inconsistent naming is very confusing, especially when you look at all those greens – there are Death World Forest, Castellan Green, Straken Green, Elysian Green and Camo Green, all muted greens that look very similar on those official colour swatches and all share Guard themed names. They could had given one line of greens Wood Elf themed names and the other one Guard themed names for example. Or they could have gone even further with paint names like “Cadian Armour Base”, “Cadian Armour Midtone” and “Cadian Armour Highlight” which would have made it really easy to understand which paints belong together, especially for the novice and younger painters.My tip here would be to apply your next coat of contrast color with a small pointed round brush (like a #0 or #1 size) that has stiff bristles. This will give you more control in smaller places on your model. Sure, you won’t cover as much surface area in a single application, but you’ll reduce the risk of making a mistake paint somewhere you don’t want to. Looking at all angles of your model, make sure your dry brush covers only the raised surfaces of your miniature. This is the key thing you want to do when you’re looking to add that “extra dimension” to your miniature. 5. Add highlights with dry brushing

The Kroxigor is a lovely model and also very easy to assemble. I ended up using some liquid green stuff to fill some small gaps, but hard to know if that was my failure to fit the model properly or the nature of the kit.

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Let your viewers’ eye travel over the model by adding interesting points at different parts of the model. If you do want to focus your painting efforts, I would suggest make sure the “face” is well-painted. The face carries the rest of the model in most cases. OPTIONAL STEPS Yellow is easy. Seriously. I'm actually gonna spend more time trying to describe what to do, than what it what actually take to do. You'll need a few things. Lizzie: This is an incredibly versatile new shade of brown. It’s perfect for leather and cloth. This is fantastic for adding some extra grime to your Nurgle miniatures too. Thanks for the great writeup. It's really great to see an in-depth review of the technical aspects of the paint without all the GW hype. Based on their individual lore in the Warhammer 40K world and the factions that are frequently connected with the color yellow, the choice to list these particular armies was made.