Take advantage of ultra low 0.001-frame input lag to embrace the smoothest gaming experience! To give gamers precious milliseconds during the game, all action will be rendered smoothly without ghosting, and mouse motion will be synchronized with no latency. Best Combat Positioning

dd if=XL2411Z_V2_20131209_8B72.BIN of=firmware.bin conv=notrunc (# < important !--REPLACE XL2411Z_V2_20131209_8B72.BIN with your firmware you are flashing!! Example: XL2411Z_V4.BIN or XL2420Z_V4.BIN or XL2720Z_V4.bin (as I suggested above). Thanks to the 144Hz refresh rate you can expect very fast, clear crisp low latency visuals that well show off the best of any game. This is a 1080, full HD screen which means most modern video cards should be able to power it without much difficulty. For example the Nvidia GTX960 and above will be quite capable of decent 1080 gaming. If you want to hit 144 frames per second at ultra high resolutions you might want something a little more powerful though!hz: turns inverse ghosting into normal ghosting. existing normal ghosting becomes more intense by the same degree. Reducing contrast to 0/10 has a massive improvement in overdrive quality compared to the default AMA high with 43 contrast (without toggle). At contrast 10, there is no inverse ghosting anywhere and only very minor added normal ghosting (which was intense at 43 contrast). Someone on Skype DID say that he had less overdrive overshoot when he went to V4 on his 2411z (without MBR). The dynamic contrast shows the ratio between the brightest and the darkest color, which the display can reproduce over time, for example, in the course of playing a video.

Information about whether the stand can be dismounted. Usually, this is required for wall mounting. The above is based on enabling blur reduction after AMA was set before (or with toggling gamer/display presets).

sudo i2cdump -r 0-127 1 0x50 <--- get EDID (0x50) from bus 1. You are looking for an EDID dump that shows the monitor name in it. You may have to change the 1 to a 0 ( 0 0x50 insteada of 1 0x50), or you may have to change 0x50 to 0x49 (probably not, though; most video hardware will always be on 0x50). Once you find the dump that says "XL2411Z" then you're good to go. In some cases your monitor may be on bus 0, thus the change from a 1 to a 0. On my R9 290x video card, on the DVI port, this was bus 5. So the command I had to use was "sudo i2cdump -r 0-127 5 0x50" But you need those two steps for the 832k files (the firmware name above was based on flashing the original V2 btw)